Review: Boneyard, Pump Shoreditch, London

Shoreditch is facing stiff competition to keep its long held crown as the 'go to' location for exciting urban dining, with contenders Bethnal Green and Dalston becoming established foodie hotspots with clever chefs openings pop-ups every other day, or so it seems. Despite some recent rivalry, Shoreditch’s food scene holds our attention by continuing to constantly evolve. 

The peopople behind Beach Blanket Babylon bring to us Boneyard, part of Pump Shoreditch. Pump Shoreditch occupies the premises of a former petrol station, which has been converted into a permanent street food market, with stalls offering a variety of cuisine such as sticky pulled pork, rustic wood fired pizzas, and gourmet indulgent vegan fare.

Boneyard is Pump’s offering that closest resembles a restaurant, occupying the former off-licence area of the petrol station. It specialises in serving 'meat on the bone' meats – think ribs and chicken – sinfully delicious American comfort food.

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We visited on a Wednesday night, and although the heavens had opened and we’d forgotten an umbrella, our spirits lifted upon entering the cosy wooden space. Warmed by large pillar candles and the friendly welcome of Boneyard’s lovely manager Roxanne, we felt instantly relaxed. Cocktail o’clock called for a couple of Porn Star Martinis (£9.50) and a round of Margaritas (£9.50), it was hump day after all.

Food was a gargantuan feast, a real sampling of southern American cooking, and for a moment, we felt as though we could have been transported to New Orleans...

During our visit we had Chicken Bones (£6), which are double dipped in buttermilk and fried in a crispy herby coating; Pork Bones (£15 for a full rack or £4.50 for one portion), which consisted of soft tender ribs slow cooked for 24 hours in a smoky bourbon maple glaze; the Bone Marrow Burger (£8.50), a classic that was executed well, with double patties on soft brioche, smoked tomato, good cheese, and a delicious gloopy sauce to tie the whole thing together.

Sides were fun.  We had Chili Chips (£4), a fun take on classic game chips, lattice style fried potatoes smothered in chilli con carne with crème fraiche. The green salad (£4) with avocado and honey mustard dressing helped to break up the richness of the main courses, and the Rex’s Tater Tots (£4), delicious little bundles of potato joy, were not to be missed.

We didn’t have any room left for a pudding, but if you didn’t gorge quite as much as we did, they have a delicious selection of milkshakes that are no doubt sinfully indulgent.

Boneyard was just what we needed to perk us up for the rest of the week. A relaxed, chilled out place that would no doubt be perfect for catching up with a group of friends or bonding with co-workers after a long day. My only criticism was the cocktails – although tasty – they were a bit overpriced at almost £10, considering their small size. 

As we emerged into the rainy, darkness of Shoreditch my friend turned to me and exclaimed that she had completely forgotten she was in London, and marvelled that Boneyard had made her feel so snug.

Boneyard
Pump Shoreditch
168 Shoreditch High Street
London
E1 6HU


Hours: 11am – very late.

Patrick Hamilton Courtney