Boneyard is Pump’s offering that closest resembles a restaurant, occupying the former off-licence area of the petrol station. It specialises in serving 'meat on the bone' meats – think ribs and chicken – sinfully delicious American comfort food.
During our visit we had Chicken Bones (£6), which are double dipped in buttermilk and fried in a crispy herby coating; Pork Bones (£15 for a full rack or £4.50 for one portion), which consisted of soft tender ribs slow cooked for 24 hours in a smoky bourbon maple glaze; the Bone Marrow Burger (£8.50), a classic that was executed well, with double patties on soft brioche, smoked tomato, good cheese, and a delicious gloopy sauce to tie the whole thing together.
Boneyard was just what we needed to perk us up for the rest of the week. A relaxed, chilled out place that would no doubt be perfect for catching up with a group of friends or bonding with co-workers after a long day. My only criticism was the cocktails – although tasty – they were a bit overpriced at almost £10, considering their small size.
As we emerged into the rainy, darkness of Shoreditch my friend turned to me and exclaimed that she had completely forgotten she was in London, and marvelled that Boneyard had made her feel so snug.
168 Shoreditch High Street
Hours: 11am – very late.
Patrick Hamilton Courtney