We were first introduced to the Italian concept of aperitivo during a weekend jaunt to Milan. We loved enjoying the tasty small plates while sipping on sophisticated cocktails and lamented that we couldn’t replicate our experience in London. So, we were pleased to hear about the opening of Ritorno, a sophisticated lounge with an Italian kitchen in the heart of Chelsea specialising in Italian small plates. This 80-cover lounge is a gorgeous place to unwind with decadent cocktails and moreish nibbles in a stylish setting, while still being able to enjoy a conversation with your companions. The decor The décor reminded me of Roberto Cavalli's style - all sexy dark colours and opulent styling with its striking butterfly wallpaper from luxury Venetian brand Rubelli, olive green velvet chairs, and dark forest green booths, sleek black glass tables and illuminated faux marble pillars, which create a sumptuous environment. We later learned that the décor is the work of Milanese interior designer Ingrid Nardilli who used butterflies in the interior as they ‘represent lightness, beauty and elegance, which is what they'd like guests to associate with Ritorno’. The food Guests can choose from 40 small plates prepared by chef Filippo Salzano, all of which use high quality ingredients and the freshest produce possible. Even the mozzarella is made using the authentic Italian method, but prepared in the UK to ensure it’s as fresh as possible. During our visit we had the homemade artisan bread served with Lorenzo extra virgin olive oil (our new favourite olive oil); potato croquettes, fried mozzarella, arancina and fried artichoke; pan-fried Milanese saffron risotto, homemade taglioni with mini meatballs and the crispy pork belly with basil oil. All of the dishes were fresh, delicious, beautifully presented and not too heavy, which is exactly what you want when you’re enjoying cocktails as well. Being dessert lovers, we finished with the chocolate fondant, which was fab. The small plates range in price from £5.50-£10.50 and it’s recommended that two people sharing start with five small plates to share, which we found was more than adequate. The drinks Ritorno has a wide range of innovative cocktails, so it’s worth trying a few different cocktails during your visit. The cocktails range in price from £12.50-£13.50, on par with what you’d expect to pay in finer establishments. If you’re not sure what you’re in the mood for, the helpful mixologists can provide recommendations to suit your tastes. With head barman Paolo Viola behind the helm (formerly of Rivoli Bar at The Ritz), you really can’t go wrong. The Ritorno Milan Mule was a unique twist on a classic, featuring homemade clementine and cinnamon syrup, Campari bitter and ginger beer. If you’re looking for a show-stopping cocktail, however, then the Snow Kings is the only drink of choice. This winter cocktail has a white Americano base, soft hazelnut liquor foam, Mancino Bianco, Bitter Berto, Frangelico Liqueur and egg white and comes served with smoke from a burnt cinnamon stick, which is trapped in a glass dome and then wafted at the diner when presented at the table. If you’re not into alcohol, there’s no need to feel left out as their mocktails are also sensational. The service The staff here are exceptionally knowledgeable about the provenance of every item, which makes each drink and dish all the more special when you have the full back story to accompany it. Everyone at Ritorno really goes out of their way to make guests feel special, which is one of the reasons we can’t wait to go back. Group bookings For larger groups, there is a private dining room downstairs, which seats 10 guests, making it the perfect place for an intimate gathering. The verdict This is a great place to unwind with a sexy post work tipple and nibbles.
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I LOVE meat, so when I was invited to The World’s End Market to experience what has been described as ‘one of the finest steaks on earth’ from world class meat connoisseur José Gordón, I jumped at the opportunity The Vibe The World’s End Market is situated on the stylish Kings Road in Chelsea in an iconic Grade 2 listed building that once housed the World’s End Pub. Today, it has been revamped in modern industrial chic style with white metro tiles, copper ceiling lanterns, black and white chequered floors and a rustic bar with reclaimed pallets all coming together harmoniously to create an intimate and inviting space. Interesting bric-a-brac lined the walls, with ceramic pots and jugs, an old wandering can and bundles of dried peppers hanging from the ceiling, all giving diners’ eyes an interesting place to rest when they’re not busy devouring the cuisine. The José Gordón menu The World’s End Market’s collaboration with José Gordón has resulted in a variety of delicious beef offerings on the menu including: tender cuts of Carpaccio from the Entrecôte, which is matured for 180 days in high-quality Spanish olive oil; Flank Steak from the Vacio de Buey; and Cured Premium Ox of the Cecina de Buey variety. A high quality and detailed process, the meat is dry-aged individually for at least 90 days to ensure the most succulent and flavoursome finish for a taste, texture and experience like no other. For starters, we went for the beef carpaccio - thin strips of bright red beef seasoned with large flakes of sea salt, which is a must for any carnivore. We also had the beef tartare, which was superb with a strong garlic flavour - a true classic done well. As we waited for our order to arrive, we enjoyed watching the barmen furiously shaking cocktails for those gathered round the bar to imbibe. After seeing several glorious cocktails being served, we couldn’t resist the temptation any longer and we sprung for a hibiscus pisco sour – one of their signature cocktails, which not only looked sublime thanks to its shocking pink colour and its dried rose petals and rosemary sprig garnish, but it was hands down one of the best pisco sours I’ve EVER had, and I’ve had a fair few pisco sours in my day! For the mains we ordered, what else - the Ox Flank Steak aka ‘Vacio De Buey’. The steak arrived with two strips of steak, rather than one slab of meat that you’d typically get with a sirloin or a ribeye, and it had a very rich, buttery flavour. The steak was accompanied by a simple gem lettuce salad with honey mustard dressing and a side of seasonal veg, ensuring that the meat was the star of the show. For guests who aren’t crazy about beef, they also have a great selection of fresh fish that you can choose from. The verdict We loved the laidback vibe and we were especially impressed with the cocktails. It’s definitely a great date place for carnivores looking for a chilled evening!
OXBO is a bustling, sophisticated dining room occupying the ground floor of the Hilton Bankside. The focus is modern British food with an occasional twist, while oozing that relaxed Sunday vibe we all hanker for. The vast dining room is notably on trend with exposed brick, white tiles, suspended lighting and industrial style partitions with the open plan kitchen providing a focal point for diners. A chap strumming on the guitar under the mounted animal heads art pieces adds to the laid back, anything goes feel. The Sunday we visited the restaurant was packed with couples and families with young children, all meeting up for a chilled afternoon. The food The interesting concept allows guests to choose from starters and desserts served buffet-style, while guests have three items to choose from for the main course. I decided not to do that terribly English thing of piling my plate high with clashing cuisines, and so opted for the sashimi. The array of fish bowled me over - salmon, swordfish, sea bass and varying cuts of tuna; I devoured three plates worth of the delicate fresh slivers doused in plenty of soy sauce and spiked with wasabi. My partner took one for the team and covered the rest – prawns dipped in mayo, smoked duck breast and salami, a variety of cheeses, salad and cutesy individual crab and mango cups. Now I would have presumed the roast sat at the helm of the main courses and who wouldn’t order blushingly pink sirloin of beef, but the Josper grilled chicken was just as gorgeous - smoky and charred with that salty crisp skin you imagine could only be achieved from a barbecue. I presume the cod cooked in that same beastly, indoor charcoal oven is equally as delicious. For vegetarians, a cauliflower and broccoli dahl provides a refreshing alternative to the otherwise quintessential Sunday roast. But for me, having had several sneak previews of the beef and marvelling at its on-point cooking, it didn’t disappoint. I find Yorkshire puddings as big as your face are always a welcome presence and the gravy was so tasty I could have drunk it from the jug! Dessert is served in the same fashion as the starters and when you’re as full as an egg that suits perfectly. A Polly Pocket-sized strawberry crème brulee and a salted caramel chocolate cup were among my favourites. The Rocky Road was a coup. Drink It’s not called a Bottomless Roast for nothing and to my delight, this extends to the libations. With three courses for £28 and only £40 for the addition of bottomless Cava, it’s well worth pushing the boat out. Where some bottomless servings feel slow and reluctant, this was attentive and generous. Service Casual, classy and confident.
Luci Lyne
While I used to be an East Finchley resident, it takes a lot to drag me up north these days, but the sound of Tootoomoo was just too tempting to resist. With four locations in Highgate, Whetstone, Islington and Crouch End, the pan-Asian restaurant fuses Malaysian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese influences to create a menu packed with mouthwatering dishes, combining a pinch of the ancient with modern cooking techniques from executive chef Ricky Pang. THE VIBE Modern, chic, but full of character. The Crouch End branch has red walls scribbled with quirky words, gorgeous tiled sections and plenty of greenery. It was empty when we arrived at 7pm, but within about 15 minutes the place was buzzing - we’d clearly hit their golden hour. with a menu of light bites and tapas-style small dishes, it attracted a crowd of locals popping in for a quick bite, groups on a post-Christmas catch up and even the odd date night couple. THE FOOD Tootoomoo boasts a very impressive tasting menu, with the Explorer (for 2 people, 6 dishes for £30) and Discovery (for 4,10 dishes for £50) both very cost effective options. We went for the former, choosing three dishes from the small Plates or Sushi sections and three from Sashimi, Salads, Tempura, Grill or Wok. Sampling the former, we started with some juicy plump chicken gyoza in an incredibly moreish black rice vinaigrette and perfectly crispy shichimi Japanese pepper and sweet chilli squid. The duck and watermelon salad is highly recommended, refreshingly summery and definitely one I shall try and recreate at home. The salmon sashimi was properly melt in the mouth and came with a fresh homemade wasabi, a pleasant - if fiery - change to the green sludge usually accompanying shop bought sushi. The Pad Thai was perfection and their satay chicken hands down some of the best I’ve ever tasted. Being January we stuck to mocktails, sampling the Virgin Orchid, the delicious combo of cranberry, apple and lychee, though it’s worth noting that if your postcode falls under one of their delivery areas they can deliver cocktails to your door… THE VERDICT For fast, fresh, affordable pan-Asian cuisine - you can’t beat it. I admit, I’m a bit gutted they aren’t south of the river. For the rest of January, you can also satisfy your cravings with a ‘£5 from 5pm menu’, saving up to 50%, available exclusively from 5pm – 6:30pm, Monday – Friday, so now there’s no excuse not to try it.
Winter is a sad enough time without depriving oneself of good grub; it’s the time to lay down the kale smoothies, sack off January diets and seek out a proper London pub for a hearty roast. If it’s a prefect roast you’re after, then the recently reopened Fentiman Arms is a good start. THE VIBE Located in the heat of Vauxhall, this ‘contemporary cool with a retro vibe’ pub has been gently restored to expose period woodwork, which contrasts with statement walls of the deepest blue, bedecked with vintage cricket prints - a nod to cricketing mecca The Oval. Here punters relax on reclaimed wooden classroom chairs while feasting their eyes on bookshelves laden with classical literature, dictionaries and nostalgic toys, all of which play their part in immersing cricket fans, beer aficionados and neighbourhood foodies into this vibrant hideaway. If you head upstairs, you’ll find The Refectory, a new dining room reminiscent of a schoolmaster’s study with quirky harlequin wallpaper, zinc-topped tables and bookcase-lined walls. The Library Room at the back of the bar features nostalgic Penguin books wallpaper and gives easy access to the heated terrace and sheltered beer garden. THE FOOD Reflecting the school time vibe is the Back to School menu, which rotates monthly and features childhood favourites such as bubble and squeak; liver, bacon and onions with a jam roly poly to finish. Available at a set price of £20 (Monday to Thursday) this is one school dinner that’s not to be missed. Those after a little more sophistication can tuck into The Fentiman Arms’ seasonal British menu including must-try mains of whiskey and maple glazed ham with fried duck egg, pineapple croquette and triple cooked chips; wild boar and sage sausages with smooth mash; or a garlicky chicken Kiev, all updated classic British dishes with a distinct Geronimo twist. We started off with a chicken liver parfait with winter pickle and toasted sourdough, pleasant enough but clearly straight from the fridge - it would have been a whole lot more flavoursome had it not been quite so cold. The baked camembert, however, was a sterling choice. We followed our starters by tucking into a hearty roast - the obvious choice for a Sunday dinner. A veritable mountain of crisp roasties, veg, a slab of meat (mine succulent, salty gammon, hers a melt in the mouth piece of beef) all topped with a Yorkshire pud and oodles of gravy, it was deceivingly filling; we were stuffed to the gills. That being said, we (just) managed to find space to squeeze in a proper old-school Bramley apple and cranberry crumble with custard. WHAT TO DRINK While The Fentiman Arms does a good line in beers, with craft brews in the fridge and Sharp’s Doom Bar, Meantime London Pale Ale (a Fentiman favourite) and Wimbledon Tower Pale Ale all on tap, our waitress was particularly clued up about the wine list, recommending a very good Viognier, which went well with our meal.
On a rainy Sunday morning, I wasn't keen to prise myself out of my bed and into the deluge, but the thought of a scrumptious brunch ahead propelled me to Noak, a laidback cafe in Brockley, South East London. Luckily for those lazy bones who can't bear rising before noon, brunch is served until 3:30pm, so there's no excuse to miss it. Their 'market-driven menu', which changes weekly, is lovingly prepared by their Head Chef who works with local suppliers to source local produce whenever possible and the make everything they can on-site including: preserves, butter, dressings, sauces, and cured fish and meats. THE VIBE The restaurant is very casual and the main focal point is a large, wood fired oven in the open kitchen where you can watch the chefs busily beavering away. The atmosphere here is very chilled out with the cafe becoming busy around 11:00 am with locals filing in for a hearty feed. THE FOOD The menu features typical brunch offerings (e.g. smashed avocado on thick slabs of sour dough bread, poached eggs and salmon, pancakes, etc. - with dishes priced from £6-£11) but they also have other treats on offer such as the baked banana bread with mascarpone, seasonal compote and nut crumble (£5.50), which was gorgeous and beautifully presented with a small edible flower. We also loved their baked beans, which aren't the typical English baked beans you get with a full English, but a hearty portion of mixed baked beans with a smokey flavour, which reminded me of something that I reckon cowboys would have eaten back at the ranch, but perhaps I've seen too many Westerns!
For supper in the city one is presented with something of an overwhelming array of establishments, but I recently paid a visit to one that now has a firm place on my foodie radar. Marco Pierre’ White’s Wheeler’s of St James’s Oyster Bar & Grill Room in Bank has a rather delightful new menu, which you’ll definitely want to sample. THE VIBE Elegant and refined, this place is a hidden gem. Located on Threadneedle Street, next to the Threadneedles Hotel, The Oyster Bar & Grill Room, is a new concept by Marco that looks to build on the history of Wheeler’s, famed for being the oldest fish brand in the world There’s a separate bar area before the main restaurant, which even on a Tuesday evening, was buzzing with post-work diners. The restaurant itself is delightfully spacious (there’s nothing worse than feeling as though you’re dining in your neighbouring diner’s lap). With perfectly attentive staff and a peaceful ambience, we knew we were in for a treat. THE FOOD Inspired by the simplicity of Marco Pierre White’s traditional French cooking, the new menu includes dishes such as roast chicken with woodland mushrooms, as well as classics such as the Wheeler’s fish pie. We started with half a dozen oysters, perfectly accompanied with a delicious vinaigrette, and a baked camembert with toasted sourdough and roasted vine-ripened tomatoes. The Classic French favourite lobster thermidor was up next - creamy, cheesy and absolutely delicious, with chunky chips and side salad, washed down with a very lovely Riesling. Tricky though it was to find room for pudding, the Eton mess and warm chocolate brownie with ice cream were worth it.
London al fresco dining undoubtedly comes into its own in the summer, but as the seasons change and the evenings become chilly once more that doesn’t mean we have to head inside completely, especially when the likes of Dalloway Terrace are available. Situated at The Bloomsbury hotel near Tottenham Court Road, the restaurant recently launched its festive new look on 8th November, transforming into a enchanted winter wonderland by master florists Wild at Heart by Nikki Tibbles. THE VIBE The heated and covered terrace, complete with sheepskin rugs, hot water bottles and complimentary shots of Génépi liqueur is difficult to resist. Surrounded by foliage, the terrace has a secret garden feel to it - one of those places you don’t want to tell everyone about lest it get too busy, but then on the same hand it’s too good not to share… The downstairs cellar-type space, awash with fairy lights, is a cosy alternative to the main terrace and is a great date spot. THE FOOD As I visited just in time for the end of the summer menu, our meal involved some wonderfully fresh flavours and light bites. We started with perfectly seared, melt in the mouth tuna, with soy & ginger dressing and pickled radish. The lobster and mango salad, finished with a tangy yuzu dressing, was an absolute treat to the tastebuds. My guest plumped for the absolutely succulent lamb cutlets, with broccoli champ, mint béarnaise and a hefty side dish of ridiculously good mash - proper comfort food. Obviously we couldn’t leave without pudding, this time a Valrhona & pecan slice with salted caramel ice cream. Trust me, you won’t regret it. Now that the new winter menu is in full swing, I’m definitely going to be making a return visit. With dishes including fondue (both sweet and savoury…) Jerusalem artichoke soup with girolles and black truffle, East Sussex game pie, Balmoral estate venison loin and apple crumble with sloe gin and custard, as well as an exclusive afternoon tea and hot chocolate cocktail menu designed by master chocolatier Maison Pierre Marcolini, you’d be a fool to miss it.
Home of THE best steak in LondonIf you're a steak-loving carnivore, you'll know how difficult it can be to find a really good steak. Despite having eaten a wealth of steaks over the years, the perfect steak had remained elusive until my visit to OXBO Bankside, a stylish restaurant located in the Hilton London Bankside Hotel in Southwark. Upon arrival, we noticed an A-board on the pavement, which proclaimed that the restaurant had 'the best steak in London'. Now this was a big claim, and of course with claims like these we had VERY high hopes for the steak, which we couldn't wait to devour. The vibe The large dining room is cleverly arranged to create a series of intimate dining areas, making it a great place for either a romantic meal or a client dinner. The welcoming, industrial chic decor with its striking black ad white floor tiles, exposed brick walls and well-illuminated grilling area where diners can watch the chefs preparing their meals, was very impressive and reminded me of some of the funkier establishments you'd likely find in New York. We loved the quirky decor touches such as the paper mache animal heads displayed on the walls, which at first glance appeared to be an extensive range of taxidermy, but luckily (for the animals) were merely unique works of art. The food The menu offers a good variety of dishes, with something to suit all tastes. For our starters, we each opted for the soup; my companion had the ham and pea soup (really hearty and like a meal in itself) and I had the the Kobacha pumpkin soup (£7),a comforting soup topped with red onion and sage fritters, which added depth of flavour and texture). For the mains, my companion had the Shoulder of New Romney Lamb (£21), served with lentils, sweetbreads, pumpkin, soy beans, pearl onions, which looked like the perfect 'winter warmer' - an ideal dish for a cold autumn day. As you can imagine, the star of the show was the highly accoladed Aberdeen Angus steak (£30), an impressive slab of meaty goodness that was nearly two inches thick. As any good steak should be, it was exceptionally moist and had the prefect amount of char grill, which gave it a deliciously smoky flavour. The whole time I was enjoying the steak, I heard the voice of Crocodile Dundee in my head saying 'That's not a steak - THIS is a steak!' In true steak and chips style, the steak was accompanied by authentically delicious hand cut, skin-on fries. Of course, there is always room for dessert, so we shared the lemon tart with blueberry ganache (£7), which was beautifully presented with dainty meringues and edible violets. The tart had just the right amount of citrus sharpness to round off the meal nicely and we left feeling blissfully satisfied with our meal. The verdict
Although it has been a couple of months since our visit, my companion and I have been telling everyone we know that they MUST visit to try the steak, so if that's not testament to it's fabulousness, I don't know what is. Get there soon before the secret's out of the bag. Hilton London Bankside 2-8 Great Suffolk Street London SE1 OUG Our experience overall Food and drink ***** Ambience ***** Staff attentiveness/friendliness ***** info@oxbobankside.co.uk A.A. Miln London’s been having a love-in with Peruvian cuisine in the last few years and it’s easy to see why - fresh ingredients, simple, fuss-free, delicious dishes punctuated with punchy fresh flavours; what’s not to love? Soho’s Señor Ceviche is inspired by the founder's travels around Peru, showcasing the diverse flavours and cooking techniques from street food snacks and super fresh ceviches to Peruvian barbecue and healthy salads. The Vibe Just stepping across the threshold brings on major holiday envy; it’s got a bit of a street food shack vibe about it, all bright colours, exposed wood, simple furniture, a mish mash of quirky prints and paintings on the walls. I haven’t been to Peru but I imagine it’s a fairly genuine representation of how they'd do things in Lima. It may have opened a couple of years ago, but it’s still packing in the punters. A recent visit on a sunny Tuesday evening saw the windows thrown open to the buzzing throng of Kingly Court and a queue out the door. It’s the perfect setting for eking out those last hazy days of an Indian summer (I’m sure we still have a few to come…). The Drinks Don’t think about ordering anything until you’ve had a Pisco Sour, the dream accompaniment to Señor Ceviche’s spectacular menu, though admittedly the Yapa Sandia, with papaya and mango infused Macchu Pisco, lime juice and watermelon was also pretty darn good… The Food Think simple, fresh, fuss-free, flavours that pack a punch. The menu focuses on key dishes split into para picar (snacks), ceviche and tiradito, Peruvian barbecue, sides & salads and desserts. There may only be 23 items on the whole menu but it's guaranteed you’ll want to come back time and again to try them all. We hit up the chicharrone de calamar, crispy baby squid with pickled jalapeño mayo, followed by the ‘Clasíco’ ceviche - seam bream with ahi limo tiger’s milk, sweet potato puree, chock corn, red onion, coriander and plantain - alongside the signature ‘Señor Ceviche’ with octopus; both of which could have been four times the size and we still would have eaten the lot. It would have been rude not to indulge in the BBQ, so out came theft iron y uchucuta;, papaya marinated flat iron steak with uchucuta sauce, though I’m definitely going back to try the nikkei pulp Kombu grilled octopus with nikkei chimichurri and the pachamanca pork ribs - both looked divine. A side salad of tofu, black and white quinoa, edamame and grilled sweetcorn was (somewhat surprisingly for a vegan dish) absolutely delicious - we couldn’t get enough. A delicious antidote to five-star dining, Señor Ceviche is definitely one for a fast, fun meal with friends - I’ve already booked to go back twice since I visited a few weeks back! If you can’t make it to Lima, make the most of the fact that Lima’s been brought to London.
Our experience overall Food and drink ***** Ambience ***** Staff attentiveness/friendliness ***** Señor Ceviche Kingly Court Soho London W1B 5PW www.senor-ceviche.com Laurel Waldron |
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Bon Appetit!There's nothing more delicious in life than indulging in a sensational meal. |