Andalusia: azure skies all the year round, dazzling sunshine and sweetly fragranced gardens … colour, romance, emotion and the iconic figure of the flamenco dancer and the torero in the arena, sword and cape in hand beneath the scorching sun – there is simply no place like it on earth. Here are my top five destinations for your trip, full of the spirited, passionate feel of this beautiful Spanish region. 1. The Alhambra in Granada Andalusia was ruled by the Moors for seven centuries, and everywhere you go you find evidence of this Moorish influence. But nowhere else did the Moors create such decorative art and such exuberant splendour as in the complex of palaces known as The Alhambra: centuries of craft, design and technique delicately carved in stone, marble, plaster and wood, with gushing fountains and canals, a glorification of a long-distant past. American writer Washington Irving wrote of the Alhambra: ‘Everything here appears calculated to inspire kind and happy feelings, for everything is delicate and beautiful. The very light falls tenderly from above, through the lantern of a dome tinted and wrought as if by fairy hands.’ It really is straight out of Arabian Nights. 2. Grazalema, a pueblo blanco Andalusia is well known for its pueblos blancos, which translates as white villages, so-called because their white-washed buildings stand out in the landscape, serene and luminous. The residents take great pride in keeping their houses whitewashed; they repaint them each year in the spring, a wonderful cleansing to celebrate the end of winter. Of all the pueblos blancos, my favourite is Grazalema, which lies in the foothills of the Sierra del Pinar mountains. You can happily while away a summer’s afternoon wandering the cobbled streets, admiring the beautiful old buildings, taking in the stunning views, browsing locally made handicrafts, taking a drink in the village square and sampling the local ham. 3. The Picasso Museum, Malaga With such an impassioned culture, rich historical heritage and stunning landscapes and seascapes, it is no wonder that Andalusia has a strong artistic legacy. The painters Velázquez and Murillo were from Andalusia, but the most famous son of this region is undoubtedly Pablo Picasso, who was born in Malaga. Museo Picasso Malaga pays homage to this hugely influential artist, and its 233-work strong collection largely comprises donations from Christine and Bernard Ruiz-Picasso, the artist’s daughter-in-law and grandson. Here, then, you can see works that are not on display anywhere else in the world, encompassing all the stages of his career. It’s a deeply inspiring, peaceful place where hours slip by unnoticed and all the exists is you and the art. 4. The Cadiz Carnival (the weekend before Ash Wednesday) The Moors compared the city of Cadiz to a ‘dish of silver in a bowl of blue’, so vivid are the colours there; the 19th-century French writer Théophile Gautier described it as ‘lively and luminous’. It is a lovely city; the most beautiful in Spain, I think, with mellow-stone churches and whitewashed houses shining under a bright-blue sky like a spray of water lilies on the dancing, glittering waters of the Atlantic. Dating back to the 16th century, the ten-day Cadiz Carnival is the carnival to visit in Spain. As you would expect at a major carnival, Cadiz has music and dance and costumes and feasting and revelry aplenty. But what really sets it apart is the satirical song contest at its heart, which is so high profile that it is televised nationally. If you love music on the streets and spectacle all around, you’ll love the Cadiz Carnival. 5. Jerez de la Frontera
Jerez de la Frontera is the capital of horsemanship, sherry and flamenco, and its fair, the Feria de Caballo, has been drawing huge crowds for more than 500 years. The horses on display are some of the most beautiful and expensive in the world; after all, this is the city of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. There is nothing quite like standing at the side of the Paseo de Caballistas y Enganches (Carriage and Riders’ Avenue) and watching the processions of horses and carriages go by. Some are bedecked in the most amazing colourful attire. Meanwhile, in the Parque González Hontoria, a small village springs up full of casetas: little house tents. Here, you eat tapas and drink Jerez’s golden fino sherry (or perhaps the rebujito cocktail; sherry mixed with lemonade and ice – very refreshing). Then, to the stirring thrum of the guitar rhythms, you watch flamboyant, dramatic flamenco dancing. Olé! Legacy by Hannah Fielding is out 29th September (£7.99) hannahfielding.net
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Arriving at Toledo in Spain’s Castilla La Mancha region, you may be forgiven for thinking you have dropped into a Hollywood movie set. On top of a steep hill, the majestic Alcazar on the left and the massive cathedral on the right are silhouetted against the sky.
Below, the historic city walls encircle the old town and at ground level, the languid waters of the Tajo River flow under several bridges. It’s no wonder then, that Toledo is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Spain.
If, like me, you arrive by AVE on the 30-minute train ride from Madrid, the magic starts already at the train station. The building is a little jewel of Mudejar architecture, a style combining Moorish and medieval elements in a colourful harmony. Many more fine examples are found in Toledo and several other cities in the southern part of Spain.
In 2014 the focus was on Toledo because it marked the 400th anniversary of the death of the great painter El Greco. He spent many years in Toledo where he created his best known masterpieces, many of them exhibited in the El Greco museum. This year, however, Toledo is in the spotlight again thanks to its food and drink. Spanish food is renowned for being rich and varied and every year, another city is designated as the Culinary Capital of the country with many events celebrating local dishes and creations.
If you have a sweet tooth, Toledo is the place for you because it’s famous for marzipan. Toledo’s main square is called Plaza de Zocodover and was a market place for cattle in the Middle Ages. Today it’s the meeting place where all activities start and the location of San Tome, the oldest confectionary and marzipan producer of the city.
In celebration of this year’s event, their trade mark is a marzipan cake decorated with a colourful eel. Eels used to live in abundance in the Tajo, but, sadly, not any more, but they live on in marzipan. The assistants in the shop are generous with samples, and you can try toledanas or a piece of marzipan fruit. If you don’t like sweets, Toledo spoils you with other specialties such as cheeses, ham, stews , quail in a variety of preparations, as well as tender lamb, all of which are to be found on the menu of countless restaurants.
During your visit, ensure you make your way to the Mercado San Agustin, not far from Plaza de Zocodovar. Here you'll find a modern market, with four floors with fruit and vegetable stalls as well as tapas bars where you can sample the very best of this typically Spanish snack. Hanging gardens with little waterfalls in between make it a market like no other.
Thankfully, you can eat without fear of putting on weight, as Toledo is a city best explored on foot. Uphill or downhill, you spend hours walking from one breathtaking sight to the next. Along Calle Ancha, you can see silversmiths making elaborate pieces of the world famous Toledo steel, once the standard weaponry of the Romans, which today lives on in decorative artefacts and jewellery. No visit to Toledo is complete without a visit to the cathedral. Afterwards, meander through the narrow streets of the Jewish quarter and finish your tour at the medieval bridge, Puente San Martin where you'll find the starting point of La Tirolina - the longest zip line in Europe. Once kitted out in safety gear, you fly over the river, where you can enjoy the magnificent view below.
After the zip line experience, I stopped by my favourite bar for a coffee, where the owner recommended that I 'talk to the people with the yellow umbrellas’ in Zodocover Square. The people he was referring to were tour guides from Cuentametoledo, a company that specialises in nightly underground tours of Toledo. I went on a tour from 10pm to midnight, visiting five magic sites including: Arab baths, Roman baths, and a well located deep under the Jewish quarter - all illuminated by magical fairy lights.
Whether you're above ground or below ground, Toledo is a feast for the senses, and a destination that's not to be missed on any visit to Spain.
For more information visit: http://www.spain.info http://flytoledo.com http://www.cuentametoledo.com Inka Piegsa–Quischotte Ready to book your holiday to Toledo? View the offers below from Booking.com... |
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