I’ve always wanted to visit Cadiz, so when the Spanish Tourist Office asked us to visit this enchanting destination, I was thrilled to be given the opportunity to discover its charms first-hand. Cadiz forms a stunning part of Costa de la Luz, a section of the Andalusian coast line in south-west Spain known as the ‘Coast of Light’ given its year-round sunshine (more than 300 days), which provides the perfect opportunity for visitors to relax on the region’s 8km of beautiful beaches. Founded by the Phoenicians more than 3,000 years ago, this ancient port city with a population of just over 120,000, is one of the oldest cities in western Europe. Many of the historic buildings are made from oyster rock formed in the sea, a popular building material that can withstand Cadiz’s high humidity. The skyline is characterised by 129 watchtowers, built so merchants could see their ships arriving in the harbour. One of the most famous towers, Torre Tavira, with its Camera Obscura, is the ideal place to take in the city views. The old town of Cadiz with its stunning cathedrals and beautiful squares is the perfect size to wander aimlessly around, taking in the rich history of the buildings. Key highlights include Mina and Saint Antonio squares, The Botanical gardens and Ancha, renowned as the most beautiful street in Cadiz. Sherry, sherry and more sherry The Cadiz region is famous for its sherry, thanks to its soil (which contains a lot of calcium) and its climate (300 days of sunshine and plenty of rain), which combined provide the perfect growing conditions for the three grapes that are used to make sherry – Palomino, for dry sherry, and Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel for sweeter sherries. Where to enjoy sherry and traditional Spanish cuisine in Cadiz No visit to Cadiz is complete without a wine tasting at a traditional sherry bodega. We loved Bodegas Lustau (located just north of Jerez), one of the oldest wineries in Europe, and an ideal place to learn about everything you could ever want to know about sherry, including top tips such as serving it chilled paired with spicy food or mature cheese to bring out the best flavours. To continue our sherry appreciation, we enjoyed lunch at sherry bodega La Carbona, a traditional family-run restaurant offering regional dishes made with high quality ingredients, and of course, lots of sherry! With its high ceilings, wooden beams and terracotta tiles, it provides an air of cool sophistication in the heat of Jerez. Here diners can experience the culinary delicacies of the region from one of three menus (a tasting menu, a la carte or sherry pairing). We indulged in a five-course tasting menu, starting with a sherry-infused veal pate (a real taste bud tantaliser), followed by a light and delicious calamari and salmon risotto, which was bursting with flavour. Our favourite dish, however, was the divine duck with sherry and pears. But first, flamenco Andalusia is home to the birth of flamenco and with plenty of places in the region hosting flamenco shows, it’s a ‘must see’ experience. Typically, flamenco has four elements to it - hand-clapping, foot stomping, shouts of encouragement and what translates in English as ‘hell raising’. I had my first taste of flamenco at Puro Arte in Jerez. The show typically lasts 60 minutes and demands your FULL attention. The intensity was unlike anything I had seen before; I was immediately mesmerised by the energy, the passion, and the connection between the performers. If you’re seeking a traditional experience unlike any other, head to Sanlúcar de Barrameda to take in horse racing on the beach with a beautiful sunset serving as the backdrop for this spectacular race.
This racing tradition, which has been going for 175 years, was started by fisherman who used horses to help them be the first to get to the market. Today, thanks to big sponsors and a lucrative prize offering, this 1800-metre race attracts top quality horses and trainers from around the world. Hundreds of locals and visitors line the beach to watch the action, tucking into sunset picnics while the horses whizz past. Local children also get involved, betting sweets on their favourite horses to win! At the finish line, viewing platforms and VIP areas provide places to bet, see the horses and have a drink. The races generally start at 6pm – depending on the tide – and on average, there are four races per evening over three days twice a year in August. Horse fans should also ensure they visit the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, which hosts a programme of performances throughout the year by world renowned horses and riders. The verdict Whatever your pleasure, Cadiz provides a wealth of experiences for all to enjoy. From spectacular beaches to historical treasures, it’s a unique destination that should be on everyone’s Spanish travel bucket list. Elinor Seath *During my visit I was hosted by The Spanish Tourist Office, The Soho Boutique Hotel in Jerez, and La Carbona. All opinions and images are my own.
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Andalusia: azure skies all the year round, dazzling sunshine and sweetly fragranced gardens … colour, romance, emotion and the iconic figure of the flamenco dancer and the torero in the arena, sword and cape in hand beneath the scorching sun – there is simply no place like it on earth. Here are my top five destinations for your trip, full of the spirited, passionate feel of this beautiful Spanish region. 1. The Alhambra in Granada Andalusia was ruled by the Moors for seven centuries, and everywhere you go you find evidence of this Moorish influence. But nowhere else did the Moors create such decorative art and such exuberant splendour as in the complex of palaces known as The Alhambra: centuries of craft, design and technique delicately carved in stone, marble, plaster and wood, with gushing fountains and canals, a glorification of a long-distant past. American writer Washington Irving wrote of the Alhambra: ‘Everything here appears calculated to inspire kind and happy feelings, for everything is delicate and beautiful. The very light falls tenderly from above, through the lantern of a dome tinted and wrought as if by fairy hands.’ It really is straight out of Arabian Nights. 2. Grazalema, a pueblo blanco Andalusia is well known for its pueblos blancos, which translates as white villages, so-called because their white-washed buildings stand out in the landscape, serene and luminous. The residents take great pride in keeping their houses whitewashed; they repaint them each year in the spring, a wonderful cleansing to celebrate the end of winter. Of all the pueblos blancos, my favourite is Grazalema, which lies in the foothills of the Sierra del Pinar mountains. You can happily while away a summer’s afternoon wandering the cobbled streets, admiring the beautiful old buildings, taking in the stunning views, browsing locally made handicrafts, taking a drink in the village square and sampling the local ham. 3. The Picasso Museum, Malaga With such an impassioned culture, rich historical heritage and stunning landscapes and seascapes, it is no wonder that Andalusia has a strong artistic legacy. The painters Velázquez and Murillo were from Andalusia, but the most famous son of this region is undoubtedly Pablo Picasso, who was born in Malaga. Museo Picasso Malaga pays homage to this hugely influential artist, and its 233-work strong collection largely comprises donations from Christine and Bernard Ruiz-Picasso, the artist’s daughter-in-law and grandson. Here, then, you can see works that are not on display anywhere else in the world, encompassing all the stages of his career. It’s a deeply inspiring, peaceful place where hours slip by unnoticed and all the exists is you and the art. 4. The Cadiz Carnival (the weekend before Ash Wednesday) The Moors compared the city of Cadiz to a ‘dish of silver in a bowl of blue’, so vivid are the colours there; the 19th-century French writer Théophile Gautier described it as ‘lively and luminous’. It is a lovely city; the most beautiful in Spain, I think, with mellow-stone churches and whitewashed houses shining under a bright-blue sky like a spray of water lilies on the dancing, glittering waters of the Atlantic. Dating back to the 16th century, the ten-day Cadiz Carnival is the carnival to visit in Spain. As you would expect at a major carnival, Cadiz has music and dance and costumes and feasting and revelry aplenty. But what really sets it apart is the satirical song contest at its heart, which is so high profile that it is televised nationally. If you love music on the streets and spectacle all around, you’ll love the Cadiz Carnival. 5. Jerez de la Frontera
Jerez de la Frontera is the capital of horsemanship, sherry and flamenco, and its fair, the Feria de Caballo, has been drawing huge crowds for more than 500 years. The horses on display are some of the most beautiful and expensive in the world; after all, this is the city of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. There is nothing quite like standing at the side of the Paseo de Caballistas y Enganches (Carriage and Riders’ Avenue) and watching the processions of horses and carriages go by. Some are bedecked in the most amazing colourful attire. Meanwhile, in the Parque González Hontoria, a small village springs up full of casetas: little house tents. Here, you eat tapas and drink Jerez’s golden fino sherry (or perhaps the rebujito cocktail; sherry mixed with lemonade and ice – very refreshing). Then, to the stirring thrum of the guitar rhythms, you watch flamboyant, dramatic flamenco dancing. Olé! Legacy by Hannah Fielding is out 29th September (£7.99) hannahfielding.net |
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