A Moment With: Jemima Mann-Baha, Owner and Founder of Palais Amani and Fez Cooking School, Morocco15/5/2020 While international travel is not currently on the table, we can still dream about our favourite destinations and Morocco is at the top of our list as one of the world's most beguiling destinations. Fez, Morocco’s second largest city, is quite rightly emerging as a top foodie destination, and it's on our list as one of the first places we want to visit when travel is given the green light.
Set within Palais Amani, a gorgeous boutique hotel in Fez, the Fez Cooking School is one of the leading cookery schools in the area. Here all foodies start with a guided foodie tour of the medina with a chef from Palais Amani followed by a cookery class on the rooftop of the Fez Cooking School. After the session, participants can indulge in lunch while taking in the gorgeous views of the city. This year, the Fez Cooking School at Palais Amani celebrates its 10th anniversary and has also launched a new Healthy Moroccan Eating Workshop to introduce guests to some of the dishes and ingredients that are prevalent in traditional Moroccan cuisine. The menu choices have been prepared to allow guests to learn how to create dishes passed down through family traditions and to understand some of the properties that can lead to a healthier lifestyle. We caught up with Jemima to gain some insights into what inspired her to start Palais Amani and the Fez Cooking School and to learn about her plans for the future. What inspired you to set up Palais Amani and the Fez Cooking School? The dream started in 2006 when we found our incredible building for sale in the medina in Fez. Having spent nearly a year looking for a project in Morocco to throw ourselves into, we came across the former house of the Lahlou family; a glorious, abandoned, dilapidated palace just inside the ancient city walls and in need of a large dollop of TLC. Four and half years later, we opened as the largest working riad in the medina in Fez and we rapidly became known as one of the ‘must visit ‘places in Morocco. We want to allow travellers to experience all that is Moroccan, and a visit to Morocco wouldn’t be complete with out a journey to its culinary heart: couscous, tagine, pastilla - the very names of the dishes conjure up saffron and ginger, garlic and coriander, marinades and steaming pyramids of slow cooked vegetables and rich sauces. It became rapidly apparent that our guests wanted more than to just eat the delicious dishes, they also wanted to learn more about the country’s culinary wealth. As the demand grew to learn how to make Moroccan food we started giving classes to guests that had requested them. As time went by we also took them out to the markets so they could see how the daily routines in Morocco are organised around the fresh seasonal produce arriving in the souks. The creation of the Fez Cooking School was a natural extension of our hotel project. By 2015, our casual cooking workshop had turned into a business in itself and by 2018 was officially opened by Anissa Helou, herself a great writer on Islamic cuisine. Do most of your guests book the hotel specifically because they are foodies who want to participate in the cookery courses? Most of our guests book because they want to get under the skin of this fascinating country by experiencing life in a traditional way. They are well-travelled, curious people and yes many of them are foodies. How does the experience you offer differ from other cookery classes in the area? Cooking classes are a big thing in Morocco. And there certainly isn’t a shortage of classes on offer. But ours are different for a number of reasons. Our young and vibrant team take the guests out into the souks so guests learn so much more about what it is like to be growing up in a medieval city in the 21st century. This alone is an experience in itself, as it goes far deeper than a traditional guide. The visit starts off with a tasting tour in the local shops and areas where the working people of the medina will have their breakfast or lunch. This authentic cross-cultural sharing is well off the tourist paths. Then they will go and buy the best of the local produce with the chef, be inspired by the market and bring the ingredients back to the Palais to start cooking. Our cooking school overlooks the medina as it is on the roof of Palais Amani, is has the most incredible view. A feast for the eyes whilst preparing a feast for the palate! And each person cooks along side the chef on their own cooking station that we have designed for this purpose. It is a real hands-on experience. The class is run by our guest relations officers who are fluent in both English, French and of course Moroccan so they translate for the guests and at times throw in a bit of music and Moroccan dancing too! What dish do you think most defines the region? Fez is known as the culinary capital of Morocco, so the variety of dishes is huge, but one of the most famous one is the Chicken pastille. Fine layers of pastry that are made on a hot dome in the medina, are filled with a chicken tagine mix, with cinnamon, eggs, almonds and coriander. The moist sort of pie is then cooked, often in the local public bread oven and just before being served is dusted in icing sugar and cinnamon for a delicious sweet and savoury delicacy. What makes Moroccan breads and pastries unique? Do you have a favourite? The variety of Moroccan breads very often made with only flour and water, are astounding, from the thousand hole thick pancakes that are similar to crumpets known as Bgrrir, to Meloui, layered unleven bread that are served at breakfast, and can be stuffed like some sort of calzone pizza. And then the pastries, the moon shaped almond ‘cornes de gazelle’ Gazelle horns, or light Gribba with coconut, they are all very difficult to resist. My absolute favourite are Chebbakia that are served during Ramadan, a saffron flavoured pastry with orange flower water, that are cut and plaited into flowers, deep-fried and dipped in honey, and sprinkled with sesame seeds. You mustn’t even start to think of the calories or the effect will be ruined, and more than one is definitely too many, but I find myself eating three or four! What was the inspiration behind the Sephardic cooking workshop? The history of the Jews that settled in Morocco after being chased out of Spain at the end of the 15th century is a long and rich one and can be discovered through the extent of their influence in Moroccan cuisine today. Bringing spices and techniques with them, a number of dishes that are regularly eaten today have Sephardic roots. The inspiration was to be able to show centuries of believers living side by side and sharing common values through the daily rituals, and for our guests to learn more about the history of this fascinating city. I think a lot of people would be surprised to learn that Morocco produces some great wines, which they can try during your wine tasting experience. Can you provide a bit more detail? Which wines do they do best in Morocco? From the grape picking scenes on the mosaics at the incredible Roman ruins Volubilis that are less than an hour away from Fez it is clear that the making of wine is not a recent activity in Morocco. And indeed some of the really good wines in Morocco come from the region around Volubilis today. We showcase over 20 delicious Moroccan wines on our wine list. There is nothing shy about a wine from Morocco. They are full of sunshine, are robust and powerful, and go very well with typical Moroccan dishes. But that doesn’t mean that they don’t have the complexity of some sophisticated wines from the world. They do and are definitely worth trying. My favourite are the Epicuria range from the Domaine de la Zouina near Meknes. The white Epicuria is yellow and buttery similar to some of the very good French Viognier wines, and the Red Syrah is deep and velvety, perfect with couscous. What exciting plans do you have in store for the future of the business? I don’t think anyone would have imagined a couple of months ago, how tourism was going to be transformed with the Covid lockdown. And whilst a lot of the future is uncertain for international travel, this situation is maybe forcing us to be a bit more creative. We are really excited to be starting online cooking workshops from the Fez cooking School. We are showcasing a number of live classes for free so that although people may not be travelling now, they can travel a bit with us through cooking. We send out the list of ingredients and utensils a few days before the live class, and a link to join the class. All you have to do is to sign up, buy the ingredients and show up to be able to lift the lid on some of the secrets of making the best Moroccan dishes. To sign up for a free cooking workshop visit: https://forms.gle/vmrpYm8rYkD86g1VA
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We caught up with Sanguan Parr to hear about what's been cooking in the world of Thai cuisine. What fuels your culinary creativity? Fresh and seasonal ingredients have a big impact on my creativity - I am inspired by whatever produce is in season. Thai mangoes, for example, are only available in summer time. The way people eat has changed now too. Many diners don’t linger in restaurants for long meals so you need to be creative about cooking delicious dishes quickly. How has your cooking style evolved over the years, given you’ve now been at Nipa Thai for more than 16 years? When I first came to the UK, Thai ingredients were so rare so it was very difficult to get hold of anything other than the most basic ingredients - even fresh chillies or lemongrass were difficult to source. Over the years, I have found that diners are becoming more adventurous about the kinds of dishes they want to eat. They’re not just ordering Thai green curry anymore, although of course that’s still a firm favourite. The supplier can also provide us with more exotic ingredients now that help to create a better variety of dishes. Are you witnessing any new trends in Thai cuisine? I have started to see an increase in the use of European cooking techniques - for example slow cooking meat. There’s also a trend towards using new, unexpected ingredients in traditional recipes, such as lobster in Pad Thai. What is your idea of ‘food heaven’ and ‘food hell’? Durian is my food heaven, you either love it or hate it. I am not very keen on anything too heavy or stodgy. Who has inspired your cooking? Are there any chefs that you look up to? My mother was an extremely good cook. I used to watch her cook when I was young and she really inspired me to become a chef. I admire Mary Berry’s energy and stamina. What is an inspirational quote that you live by? Be the best you can be. What city do you find the most? -inspirational? New York – it’s buzzing, lively and multicultural. -invigorating? London – there’s always something going on and it has the world’s best culinary scene. -relaxing? British Columbia in Canada, the natural landscape is amazing. -like a home away from home? Thailand, of course! We caught up with Darren Burn, founder of luxury travel company OutOfOffice.com, which specialises in LGBT friendly itineraries, to learn about his latest projects and what's up next on his destinations wish list. What influences do you draw upon to fuel your creativity? I'm a brainstormer. I often find my creative juices flowing when I'm nowhere near a pen and paper. I try to meditate regularly and despite doing my best to focus solely on my breath, inevitably that's when I have the most clarity and come up with my ideas. What is your current passion project? We launched OutOfOffice.com only 10 months ago, so that takes up nearly all my time, but it's great to be working on something that I'm so passionate about - travel. I'm determined to explore every corner of this earth before my time is up, so being able to help others to do the same by using our expertise to tailor-make travel experiences is so important to me. Too many people these days just book a room and a flight rather than immersing themselves in a destination. And to be able to say we're one of the only travel companies to place an emphasis on gay-friendly travel is really important to me, too. What is your idea of food Heaven? Food Hell? Food heaven - there are too many choices, but anything with garlic usually ticks the box and anything chocolate orange flavoured is up there. A chocolate orange melt in the middle pudding - ideal. Food hell - mushrooms. I just don't understand why you'd want to eat a fungus! Inspirational quote that you live by? "It is my belief that we all have the need to feel special. It is this need that can bring out the best in us, yet the worst in us." - Janet Jackson What city do you find the most: -Inspirational? Key West -Invigorating? London -Relaxing? Sydney -Like your home away from home? New York Favourite ‘blow the bank account’ place you like to stay when you’re treating yourself? In a glass igloo in Lapland under the Northern Lights. Totally magical. Favourite restaurant in the world? The Hunt and Fish Club in New York. Favourite holiday memory? Being on an island in Fiji for a week with no phone signal whatsoever. Bliss. What are your must-have travel essentials? - Portable phone charger - Travel pillow - A comfy hoodie for long flights What is your next adventure? Next year I'll be heading to Mauritius, Key West and hopefully the winelands in South Africa. I also am desperate to get over to Japan and the Far East, but that may have to be on 2018's agenda. If nomen est omen, then Chef Nicolas Magie couldn’t have been named more appropriately. A fourth-generation chef, Chef Magie runs the gourmet restaurant at the fabulous Le Saint James Hotel in Bouliac (near Bordeaux), where diners can enjoy his truly magical cooking. When chef Magie isn’t busy cooking culinary masterpieces or enjoying a G&T, his favourite drink, which even features in one of his elaborate starters, he enjoys playing rugby and performing in a rock band. What is your background? My family has always run restaurants in nearby Cenon and I plan to open one there myself soon, combining it with my work for the Saint James. I’m also happy that my son is following the family tradition, so there will be even more Magie chefs! Where did you learn your art?
I’m glad you call it an art, because that’s what cooking is. Apart from being a craft too. Over the years, I’ve worked at Michel Gautier’s Rouzic in Bordeaux; La Chamade Bordeaux and Le Pavillon des Boulevards Bordeaux. I then moved to Spain for a year because I enjoy the Basque cuisine and I worked at Le Miramar in Biarritz. After that, Paris called and I worked at Hotel Le Crillon. I‘m proud to say that I received 2 Michelin stars and I am hoping for another one. I joined Le Saint James as chef in 2012. What is the most important thing for you about food? I love meat, fish and, above all, seafood. What is most important is the freshness, therefore I use local products as much as possible. Luckily, Aquitaine has an abundance of delicacies, so I’m never short of material to create my dishes. What do you think about fusion cuisine which is so fashionable? Nothing! If I want to eat Chinese, I go to a Chinese restaurant. I’m a purist, the basic ingredient has priority and should dominate the flavor. There should never be more than three flavors in one dish, and sauces should complement the dish and always be served apart and never poured directly onto the meat or fish. I also use little butter and little cream. When cooking, I like to play with opposing flavors, such as the sweetness of lobster combined with green apples. Presentation is also important because we should eat with all our senses.# Do you have a signature dish? Not really, but I like to create my favorite starter: grilled scallops, topped with caviar and a crème flavored with gin tonic. It’s very popular. Do you still play rugby and have a rock band? I try to keep fit and a little rugby now and then is in order. As for the band, I used to be a member when I was younger. I love New Wave and rock and sometimes I might just pitch in, but there is no time to be a real member of a rock band now. Inka Piegsa-Quischotte What influences do you draw upon to fuel your creativity?
I love being in a super relaxing spot, somewhere in nature when I'm creating food. I'm from Australia, so this would ideally be on a warm beach, but these are in short supply in the UK. I have a really nice spot near my house in Highgate Woods, where I like to sit to think about food and the direction of cuisine at EatFirst. What is your current passion project? My latest project has been working on the perfect poached egg for our diners to re-heat at home. I created the EatFirst eggs royale. It's delivered completely chilled. It was a real challenge to nail the preparation of cooking the eggs, bearing in mind they would need to be re-heated, and not over cooked. Also Hollandaise sauce doesn't do too well when cold. So, I developed a completely butter free, healthy Hollandaise sauce. The result is a perfect eggs royale with beautiful, runny egg yolks. What is your idea of food Heaven? Food Hell? My death row meal is and always will be steak tartare. My food heaven is for sure somewhere in the Mediterranean. My summer holiday this year was on the Amalfi Coast, Capri and one week on Sardinia. The Amalfi Coast has amazing fresh seafood, burrata, limoncello, courgette flowers and beautiful fresh San Marzano tomatoes. It's amazing be able to eat these super lush, seasonal products for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Inspirational quote that you live by? “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.” - Virginia Woolf What city do you find the most: -Inspirational? Copenhagen -Invigorating? Marrakech -Relaxing? Sydney -Like your home away from home? London Favourite ‘blow the bank account’ place you like to stay when you’re treating yourself? Four Seasons - Saint Jean Cap Ferrat Favourite restaurant in the world? Quay - Sydney Favourite holiday memory? Swimming in the Mediterranean for the first time in Manarola. What are your must-have travel essentials?
What is your next adventure? I'm planning a trip to Scandinavia before Christmas. Amsterdam and Copenhagen are some of my favourite food cities in the world. We caught up with scent technician Ericka Duffy to learn about what fuels her creativity and what passion projects are keeping her busy... What influences do you draw upon to fuel your creativity? I am inspired by the Situationist movement. I take a walk with no destination each day when I am conceptualizing ideas. I also enjoy visiting second-hand shops just for the sheer knowledge that you never know what will be on the shelves, or how it will be arranged, so you will end up having items grouped together in ways that defy logic - a 1950s telephone beside a 1980s bottle of perfume, for instance, which helps spark creative thoughts. When I travel, I always visit supermarkets and art galleries; I learn a lot from both of these places. I also visit a library at least once a week. Music is an incredibly important part of my work and my life. I make mixes depending on projects, seasons and moods. I am also inspired by design. My father built a lot of the furniture in my childhood home, and we’d often collaborate on wild ideas. Each of my siblings and I had huge, oversized, treasure chests with secret compartments, bespoke to each child. He painted murals across our houses and his art work was influenced primarily by fairy tales, which has trickled down to me, too. The first film I saw in the cinema was a reissue of Snow White, which is his favourite film. He has painted and drawn Snow White in many different incarnations. What is your current passion project? My current on-going passion project is working with Courvoisier, fusing together my two worlds - fine spirits and perfume. Courvoisier is such an aromatic liquid, and as such, it’s been a pleasure designing scents that respect this olfactory history. For this project, I not only work with the fine people at Courvoisier, but I am able to collaborate with other great creative minds, like perfumer Euan McCall, who I worked with to design candles and incense to enhance the Courvoisier experience. It is my passion project because I am encouraged with Courvoisier to be imaginative and creative, which is the realm I operate best in. Further, as I work with spirits, it is delightful to work and taste such fine cognacs as part of my workday. What is your idea of food Heaven? My idea of food Heaven is my grandmother’s home any Sunday evening. My grandmother is Italian-Canadian and has hosted dinner at her house for the last 68 years or so. Our large family, neighbours, and friends drop by, which means she is catering for dozens of people every week! In my 36 years of Sunday dinners, my grandmother has never burned anything - the pastries and cakes are perfect and fresh pasta is always on the table. There are no kitchen nightmares. I love being surrounded by people I love who in turn love me, and I enjoy the many conversations and good-natured 'arguments'. Throughout the evening the drinks flow and the plates keep appearing all night. What is your idea of food Hell? As enjoying a meal ultimately relies on the atmosphere the food is served in, I would say that my idea of food hell would be in any restaurant that seems stiff, stuffy or snobbish in either décor or service. Inspirational quote that you live by? 'Barn’s burned down - now I can see the moon.' - Mizuta Masahide (1657-1723) a Japanese poet, doctor and Samurai What city do you find the most:
Favourite ‘blow the bank account’ place you like to stay when you’re treating yourself?
Favourite restaurant in the world? My favourite restaurant in the world is Chinese Traditional Buns on Dundas Street Toronto. It serves remarkably refined dim sum, with prices that cost less than fast food. The family that run it work hard and their selection of dim sum is vast. I once ate there 11 times in one week! Favourite holiday memory? My favourite holiday memory was flying to LA on a whim with my siblings and my mom when I was a teenager to see what the LA scene was all about. My mom is pretty 'rock and roll', so it was a fairly exciting trip. I’ve since been on tours with musicians and bands, however, the trips with my mom still feel the most wild! What are your must-have travel essentials?
What is your next adventure? I am an avid train traveller and have just taken some beautiful train rides across North Wales. My next adventure will be a train journey across Russia in the winter. |
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