The capital of the French Riviera and the second largest city after Marseille on the Côte d'Azur, Nice is a gorgeous town where the shimmering Bay of Angels stretches as far as the eye can see. One can understand how it has gained its nickname of ‘Nice la Belle’ (Nice the Beautiful), thanks to its stunning looks and its perfect climate with 300 days of sunshine annually and no precipitation.
Both a grand city by the sea and a beach-lover’s paradise, Nice is the interesting cousin of sophisticated Cannes. Boasting a thriving café culture and creative and cosmopolitan residents, it attracts a wealth of visitors including the discerning Riviera jet set.
As you explore the city, taking in the pastel coloured apartments and houses, you’ll often discover quirky touches, such as a pair of mannequins surveying the beach. Juxtaposed with blatant signs of wealth, thanks to a thriving marina bursting with expensive yachts and 21st century tall-ships, and its unique charms become evident.
Top 5 things to see and do in Nice
Get lost in the narrow, winding alleyways and experience the wide variety of restaurants, bars and boutiques on offer. For impressive views over Vieux Nice, the Port and Baie des Anges, Castle Hill can’t be beat. History buffs will also love to take in the ruins of the former Château de Nice. The most famous stretch of the Nice coastline, this picture-perfect promenade which covers 4km of the Baie des Anges is always heaving with life – loved by both locals and tourists alike. Make the journey to the suburb of Cimiez Hill for one of Nice's best art galleries, where you’ll find a selection of Matisse's defining works. Set just outside the city, Crossover Festival is a small hipster festival that draws an arty, eclectic crowd who gather to enjoy electro funk beats and house favourites into the early hours. The vibe reminded me of the scene that can be found in Brixton, Hackney Wick and Shoreditch in London. Highlights from this year’s festival included performances by Daox, Romare, Paradis and Midland.
Where to stay in Nice – Hotel Bougainville
Named after 18th century explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville, this charming hotel which is part of the Happy Culture Collection, has stacks of personality. Its design depicts the classic Masonry Belle Époque style and the flora and fauna décor found in the guest rooms is cheerful and inviting. Rooms from €79-103 per night. Villa Bougainville by HappyCulture 29, avenue Thiers 06000 Nice France
Where to dine in Nice - Sentimi Restaurant
The food at this buzzing Italian restaurant is out of this world. Much to my satisfaction, everything was smothered in garlic and the turbo charged flavours were divine. Try the local ‘Soca’ beer made with chickpeas, which pairs perfectly with pizza and is crisp, delicious and refreshing. Plates from €12.50. 2-4 Place Garibaldi 06300 Nice France
Getting around the Cote d’Azur
The quickest and most luxurious way to travel from Nice to Paris – Voyages SNCF There is only one way to travel from France’s Cote d’Azur coast to its capital and that’s by the seriously speedy SNCF train service. These deluxe trains can take you to a variety of locations along the coast or to Paris (which is only a five-hour journey and the scenery along the way is extraordinary). Rocket Train - The sound of Nice To help get you in the mood to visit Nice, I’ve created a set of tracks inspired by my fantastic travels (click on play below). Enjoy! For more information, visit: http://www.frenchriviera-tourism.com Ben Ricci
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Paris by day is an intoxicating place. After arriving by train, I started my day with brunch at Thierry Mark’s new restaurant L’Etoile Du Nord, which is adjoined to the bustling Gare Du Nor international terminal.
Breakfast at the exquisite L’Etoile Du Nord – the perfect start to the day Designed as a ‘space for life’, this contemporary concept restaurant aims to excite travellers with fresh ingredients served in a relaxed brassiere setting, making it a far cry from the cuisine one would typically expect to receive from an eatery within a train station. Considering the simple menu is curated by a world-renowned chef, the dishes are amazingly inexpensive. Within the restaurant, there are small touches that are tailored to travellers, such as ample space to store your luggage while you dine. The décor is light and airy and the staff are young and enthusiastic, making for a pleasant experience.
I enjoyed the Le petit-déjeuner du Zinc (€21), which included a choice of pastry, a plate of scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage and baked beans served in a lovely mini saucepan. The fromage blanc with seasonal fruits and organic muesli was also glorious. All of this was accompanied with a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice and a short macchiato – a great way to start the day.
After a heaty meal, I spent my day exploring the city, taking in the wealth of interesting boutiques and the unique street acts, alongside the classic attractions such as Musee Du Louvre.
After a long day exploring the city, the sweet scent of the Perfume District paved my way to one of my favourite Parisian hot spots - Hôtel Costes - an exclusive establishment that offers some of the best people watching in Paris.
Where to stay in Paris – the remarkable Hôtel Costes
The hotel is discreetly located on a main road. If you didn’t know what was inside, you would walk straight passed it. But I think this is the intention to maintain its distinction away from the madding crowds. Once inside, the hotel oozes style. On-site facilities include a pool, spa, restaurant and bar. But everything here is far from the ordinary. The hotel even has its own amazing perfume range, with a range of stirring fragrances.
Music is also central to creating a special vibe within the hotel, with carefully curated compilations live streamed through the sound gallery. I’ve been a long-time fan of one of their resident DJs Stephane Pompagnac, whose unique blend of lounge, electro swing, acid jazz and deep house has spanned 21 compilation albums since its inception. You can get a taste of the music offering at Hôtel Costes here: https://hotelcostes.com/#/en/costes/54/life-at-costes/55/music/
One of the best bits of the hotel is the flower adorned, sun-drenched terrace, which is always packed with an incredible assortment of interesting characters. As I glanced across the terrace, an impeccably dressed woman with a poodle under her arm caught my eye and made me smile - it was perfectly Parisian. Room options include mini, standard, deluxe and duplexes, which overlook the terrace and penthouse suites. Rates from €500 - €1500 a night. Keeping the spirit of Paris alive Although my time in Paris was short, the memories were sweet. After my return home I compiled a set inspired by my visit, which takes me back to this sensational city. Listen to my compilation here:
*While I was in Paris, I was hosted by Paris Region Comité Règional Du Tourisme. All views are my own.
Ben Ricci Follow me on Instagram: mrbenricci About Toulouse Located on the banks of the River Garonne, Toulouse is the capital city of the southwestern French department of Haute-Garonne as well as the Midi-Pyrenees region. Known as La Ville Rose, reflecting the blush pastels, pinks and terracottas of local brickwork, Toulouse is a photographer’s dream. Throughout the day, the architecture changes its hue with each passing minute from dawn to sunset. The Toulouse metropolitan area is the fourth-largest in France, after Paris, Lyon and Marseille. Here some quarters of the population still speak 10th century Occitan; others focus with unabated passion on the here and now. Where to stay in Toulouse During our visit, we stayed at the Mercure Toulouse Wilson Hotel, breathing in as we squeezed into its underground car park where the ceilings were low enough to touch. This centrally placed hotel is only a few short steps from Wilson Square with its parade of designer shops, multi-screen cinema complex, ornate fountain, and carousel, complete with kaleidoscopic ceramic horses. What to see and do in Toulouse There are a plethora of landmarks and tourist destinations to occupy your time in Toulouse including: The Basilica of St Sernin, Place du Capitole, Les Jacobins Monastery, Musée Saint-Raymond, Antiquities Museum of Toulouse, Musee des Augustins, and the Pont Neuf. We particularly enjoyed a visit to the Chateau d’Eau, a water tower which has been converted into a photography gallery. Founded by French photographer Jean Dieuzaide in the 1970s, this unique space is in itself as fascinating as the exhibitions. Another must-see tourist destination is the Canal du Midi. Originally built to boost export opportunities for 17th century wheat, wine, textile and salt producers, it is now a place where visitors can hire leisure craft for boating holidays. Other activities we enjoyed during our holiday included rummaging for second hand bargains at a bustling Sunday street market, tapping our feet to music as we ate tapas at a jazz cafe, and cheering with rapturous enthusiasm as more than a thousand rugby fans tried to break the world record for creating the biggest ever scrum in the Place du Capitole! The vibrant spirit of Toulouse is as alive as ever While the tourist destinations we visited were impressive, it was the sense of exuberance, vibrancy, youthful energy and artistic verve that most seduced us. Toulouse boasts one of the largest student populations in France, and it’s evident that it beats to the rhythm of the young and adventurous. Breakfast in Toulouse During our visit to Toulouse, we had our fair share of breakfast croissants, mopping up the flaky bits with our fingers as they fell to our plates. No jam, no honey, no butter, no preserves, nor savouries were required as accompaniments to this sweet manna from Heaven. They saw us through from breakfast till lunchtime, with maybe a mid-morning espresso or two in-between. We told ourselves we needed the caffeine as there was much to see and do in cosmopolitan Toulouse. Secretly though, we delighted in just hanging out at cafes people-watching. Toulouse is a hotchpotch of personalities and temperaments, a multicultural mix; more friendly than Paris, more edgy than Nice, more chic than Marseille. Lunchtime in Toulouse - The start of a love affair with luscious Labneh… On the day that we visited the café on the Rue Gambetta, the sun was at its height and it was 33 degrees outside when we spied a long line of people queueing for take-away orders. Inside was a clutch of tables surrounded by shop and office workers tucking into exotic salads, Lebanese breads, and galettes filled with varying combinations of spinach, garlic, herbs, spices, aubergine, houmous, marinated chicken, onions, tomato, and cheeses. The French are renowned cheese makers but that day it was not a classic camembert, a piquant brie, a rustic Roquefort or a nutty Comté that tempted me. The one I went for was not even French. It was Labneh from Lebanon. Labneh is a traditional Middle Eastern delight made from strained yoghurt, which is essentially their version of cream cheese. It might not sound the most palatable choice to select from the gourmet menus that surrounded us in the sizzling capital of south west France, but the labneh, cucumber and mint wrap we ate hit the spot - a refreshing treat on a scorching day. Longing for labneh… Since our return home, I have searched for labneh at delicatessens and cheese shops, but my enquiries have prompted puzzled looks until now. I have found a Lebanese deli on Kensington High Street, where the owner delighted in telling me how to make a labneh wrap using cucumber, olives and mint, which I plan on eating in the garden during the summer months when I’m in need of a self-indulgent lunch break.
I’m aware that it will not taste exactly like the wrap I had in Toulouse, but then holiday flavours do not travel well. That feeling of gratification, delectation, is as much in the moment as it is in the ingredients. Debra Greenhouse, freelance journalist |
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