London town isn’t short of brunch spots, but it’s rare one finds oneself dining in St James’s. Situated within The Sofitel hotel, the grade II listed The Balcon may be a classic French brasserie, however, in recent months they’ve introduced a new weekend offering inspired by the classic British brunch. Combining The Balcon’s signature French cuisine with British influences, the team will merge culinary traditions from both sides of the Channel to offer ‘Le Brunch’. The vibe The Balcon oozes old school glamour; a little Gatsby-esque in its styling, the restaurant features double-height ceilings, statement spiral staircases and chic banquettes. The tables are a little too close together in some areas - it was a squeeze to get in to our table without knocking the table next to us! The food The menu features classic egg dishes, mains such as a rare breed beef burger and a rather delectable looking soft shell crab, as well as a grill, fruits and seeds (for those with a healthier palette) and a decent selection of sweets. The Weekend Brunch is a great option if dining for an occasion; £49 per person will give you free-flowing champagne, viennoisseries, a savoury main, a sweet dish or two Parisiennes pastries and a Bloody Mary. I started off with the Trealy Farm croque madame, with raclette cheese and a duck egg; a plateful of gooey, oozy, cheesy deliciousness. Do not underestimate the joy raclette can bring. My guest enjoyed the poached lobster and avocado eggs Benedict, though remarked that the portion could have been a bit more generous. The banana, coconut and blueberry pancakes served with hefty blob of dangerously moreish cinnamon mascarpone were perfectly light and fluffy. In fact, I was so impressed I’m going to try and recreate them myself for Shrove Tuesday! My friend sprung for The Brioche French toast with a mixed berry compote and lemon curd, which also went down a treat, thanks to a welcome juxtaposition of sweet and tart flavours. The verdict Aside from feeling at times that I was dining with those at the next table given we were so close in proximity, our food did take rather a long while to appear, waiting nearly 40 minutes for our second course. It certainly was a tasty treat, but the service could have been quicker - lazy Sunday or not.
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We were first introduced to the Italian concept of aperitivo during a weekend jaunt to Milan. We loved enjoying the tasty small plates while sipping on sophisticated cocktails and lamented that we couldn’t replicate our experience in London. So, we were pleased to hear about the opening of Ritorno, a sophisticated lounge with an Italian kitchen in the heart of Chelsea specialising in Italian small plates. This 80-cover lounge is a gorgeous place to unwind with decadent cocktails and moreish nibbles in a stylish setting, while still being able to enjoy a conversation with your companions. The decor The décor reminded me of Roberto Cavalli's style - all sexy dark colours and opulent styling with its striking butterfly wallpaper from luxury Venetian brand Rubelli, olive green velvet chairs, and dark forest green booths, sleek black glass tables and illuminated faux marble pillars, which create a sumptuous environment. We later learned that the décor is the work of Milanese interior designer Ingrid Nardilli who used butterflies in the interior as they ‘represent lightness, beauty and elegance, which is what they'd like guests to associate with Ritorno’. The food Guests can choose from 40 small plates prepared by chef Filippo Salzano, all of which use high quality ingredients and the freshest produce possible. Even the mozzarella is made using the authentic Italian method, but prepared in the UK to ensure it’s as fresh as possible. During our visit we had the homemade artisan bread served with Lorenzo extra virgin olive oil (our new favourite olive oil); potato croquettes, fried mozzarella, arancina and fried artichoke; pan-fried Milanese saffron risotto, homemade taglioni with mini meatballs and the crispy pork belly with basil oil. All of the dishes were fresh, delicious, beautifully presented and not too heavy, which is exactly what you want when you’re enjoying cocktails as well. Being dessert lovers, we finished with the chocolate fondant, which was fab. The small plates range in price from £5.50-£10.50 and it’s recommended that two people sharing start with five small plates to share, which we found was more than adequate. The drinks Ritorno has a wide range of innovative cocktails, so it’s worth trying a few different cocktails during your visit. The cocktails range in price from £12.50-£13.50, on par with what you’d expect to pay in finer establishments. If you’re not sure what you’re in the mood for, the helpful mixologists can provide recommendations to suit your tastes. With head barman Paolo Viola behind the helm (formerly of Rivoli Bar at The Ritz), you really can’t go wrong. The Ritorno Milan Mule was a unique twist on a classic, featuring homemade clementine and cinnamon syrup, Campari bitter and ginger beer. If you’re looking for a show-stopping cocktail, however, then the Snow Kings is the only drink of choice. This winter cocktail has a white Americano base, soft hazelnut liquor foam, Mancino Bianco, Bitter Berto, Frangelico Liqueur and egg white and comes served with smoke from a burnt cinnamon stick, which is trapped in a glass dome and then wafted at the diner when presented at the table. If you’re not into alcohol, there’s no need to feel left out as their mocktails are also sensational. The service The staff here are exceptionally knowledgeable about the provenance of every item, which makes each drink and dish all the more special when you have the full back story to accompany it. Everyone at Ritorno really goes out of their way to make guests feel special, which is one of the reasons we can’t wait to go back. Group bookings For larger groups, there is a private dining room downstairs, which seats 10 guests, making it the perfect place for an intimate gathering. The verdict This is a great place to unwind with a sexy post work tipple and nibbles.
I LOVE meat, so when I was invited to The World’s End Market to experience what has been described as ‘one of the finest steaks on earth’ from world class meat connoisseur José Gordón, I jumped at the opportunity The Vibe The World’s End Market is situated on the stylish Kings Road in Chelsea in an iconic Grade 2 listed building that once housed the World’s End Pub. Today, it has been revamped in modern industrial chic style with white metro tiles, copper ceiling lanterns, black and white chequered floors and a rustic bar with reclaimed pallets all coming together harmoniously to create an intimate and inviting space. Interesting bric-a-brac lined the walls, with ceramic pots and jugs, an old wandering can and bundles of dried peppers hanging from the ceiling, all giving diners’ eyes an interesting place to rest when they’re not busy devouring the cuisine. The José Gordón menu The World’s End Market’s collaboration with José Gordón has resulted in a variety of delicious beef offerings on the menu including: tender cuts of Carpaccio from the Entrecôte, which is matured for 180 days in high-quality Spanish olive oil; Flank Steak from the Vacio de Buey; and Cured Premium Ox of the Cecina de Buey variety. A high quality and detailed process, the meat is dry-aged individually for at least 90 days to ensure the most succulent and flavoursome finish for a taste, texture and experience like no other. For starters, we went for the beef carpaccio - thin strips of bright red beef seasoned with large flakes of sea salt, which is a must for any carnivore. We also had the beef tartare, which was superb with a strong garlic flavour - a true classic done well. As we waited for our order to arrive, we enjoyed watching the barmen furiously shaking cocktails for those gathered round the bar to imbibe. After seeing several glorious cocktails being served, we couldn’t resist the temptation any longer and we sprung for a hibiscus pisco sour – one of their signature cocktails, which not only looked sublime thanks to its shocking pink colour and its dried rose petals and rosemary sprig garnish, but it was hands down one of the best pisco sours I’ve EVER had, and I’ve had a fair few pisco sours in my day! For the mains we ordered, what else - the Ox Flank Steak aka ‘Vacio De Buey’. The steak arrived with two strips of steak, rather than one slab of meat that you’d typically get with a sirloin or a ribeye, and it had a very rich, buttery flavour. The steak was accompanied by a simple gem lettuce salad with honey mustard dressing and a side of seasonal veg, ensuring that the meat was the star of the show. For guests who aren’t crazy about beef, they also have a great selection of fresh fish that you can choose from. The verdict We loved the laidback vibe and we were especially impressed with the cocktails. It’s definitely a great date place for carnivores looking for a chilled evening!
OXBO is a bustling, sophisticated dining room occupying the ground floor of the Hilton Bankside. The focus is modern British food with an occasional twist, while oozing that relaxed Sunday vibe we all hanker for. The vast dining room is notably on trend with exposed brick, white tiles, suspended lighting and industrial style partitions with the open plan kitchen providing a focal point for diners. A chap strumming on the guitar under the mounted animal heads art pieces adds to the laid back, anything goes feel. The Sunday we visited the restaurant was packed with couples and families with young children, all meeting up for a chilled afternoon. The food The interesting concept allows guests to choose from starters and desserts served buffet-style, while guests have three items to choose from for the main course. I decided not to do that terribly English thing of piling my plate high with clashing cuisines, and so opted for the sashimi. The array of fish bowled me over - salmon, swordfish, sea bass and varying cuts of tuna; I devoured three plates worth of the delicate fresh slivers doused in plenty of soy sauce and spiked with wasabi. My partner took one for the team and covered the rest – prawns dipped in mayo, smoked duck breast and salami, a variety of cheeses, salad and cutesy individual crab and mango cups. Now I would have presumed the roast sat at the helm of the main courses and who wouldn’t order blushingly pink sirloin of beef, but the Josper grilled chicken was just as gorgeous - smoky and charred with that salty crisp skin you imagine could only be achieved from a barbecue. I presume the cod cooked in that same beastly, indoor charcoal oven is equally as delicious. For vegetarians, a cauliflower and broccoli dahl provides a refreshing alternative to the otherwise quintessential Sunday roast. But for me, having had several sneak previews of the beef and marvelling at its on-point cooking, it didn’t disappoint. I find Yorkshire puddings as big as your face are always a welcome presence and the gravy was so tasty I could have drunk it from the jug! Dessert is served in the same fashion as the starters and when you’re as full as an egg that suits perfectly. A Polly Pocket-sized strawberry crème brulee and a salted caramel chocolate cup were among my favourites. The Rocky Road was a coup. Drink It’s not called a Bottomless Roast for nothing and to my delight, this extends to the libations. With three courses for £28 and only £40 for the addition of bottomless Cava, it’s well worth pushing the boat out. Where some bottomless servings feel slow and reluctant, this was attentive and generous. Service Casual, classy and confident.
Luci Lyne
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