The SCHLOSS Roxburghe Hotel & Golf Course is a four AA star, 20-bedroom property located in the beautifully scenic Scottish Borders countryside, approximately an hour’s drive from Edinburgh. I first visited The Roxburghe Hotel & Golf Course in Kelso, Scotland around five years ago, when it was still owned by the Duke of Roxburghe. He sold it in 2018 to the German developer 12.18 Investment Management and it reopened this year following a £30m redevelopment, rebranded as SCHLOSS Roxburghe Hotel & Golf Course. On our first visit, the historic property was clearly in need of a cash injection and some TLC to bring it kicking and screaming into modern times, and that's certainly what the 12.18 group has achieved. The entire hotel has had a complete refurbishment and the results are pretty impressive. The vibe Activities on offer are reflective of olde world Scottish sports - think shooting, fishing, hunting, and of course, golf. The rooms Each of the 20 rooms falls into five distinct categories: Suite, Duplex Suite, Junior Suite, Deluxe Room, and Superior Room. German interior design firm Kitzig Interior Design developed the design concept, which was inspired by the unique location, the surrounding landscape and nature. The interiors are a combination of Scottish patterns and colours, with rustic materials such as oak wood, natural stone and linen. Kitzig have successfully managed to balance tradition with contemporary design and have kept many of the original features including the fireplaces (a necessity during the cold Scottish winters) and stucco embellishments on the ceilings and walls. Food & drink The hotel is home to a variety of food and drink options including the 1745 Bar, Sunlaws (the fine dining restaurant), the State Room Lounge, and the Drawing Room, which is ideal for a relaxed afternoon tea. The kitchen is helmed by Executive Chef Jacques-Olivier Borja, who has been at the hotel since 2016. His speciality is Scottish cuisine with a French twist - a nod to his French roots. Chef Borja completed a three-year apprenticeship at the Bourgogne, a one star Michelin restaurant in his home town Troyes in Champagne, and he then continued his training in Paris for 18 years. He started as a kitchen assistant, working his way to the position of Executive Sous-Chef in the most renowned two and three Michelin star Restaurants, including Lucas-Carton and the prestigious Hotel de Crillon. During his military service at 23 years old, he was deployed to serve President Jacques Chirac at de l’Elysée in 1996. In 2006 he moved from Paris to Mexico City, where he was employed as Executive Sous-Chef for InterContinental Hotels. In 2008, he made the leap across the ocean to settle in the Scottish Borders. The new culinary team is very international with staff from all corners of the world. They are devoted to sustainability and the environment, with a focus on sourcing sustainably sourced and locally sourced ‘Estate-to-Plate’ food where possible, with the chefs actively foraging the grounds of the estate for as much produce as possible. They then bring it to life with culinary delights inspired by a passion for Scotland’s abundance of fresh produce, meat, fish and game. Additionally, they strive to source produce from in and around the local area, working with local suppliers to support local businesses, whether it be a local supplier of tomatoes, potatoes, meat, fish or jam, making the best use of Scotland's natural produce. The game is sourced from the estate and to take the concept to the next level, the staff can provide guests with the full experience of ‘estate to plate’ where a guest can see the journey from the hunt, through to the kitchen and finally to the table. Activities Guests have a wealth of activities to choose from including use of a championship golf course and a comprehensive range of sporting pursuits from clay pigeon shooting to tomahawk throwing and fly fishing. The Local Area The hotel is located next to the town of Kelso, deep in the heart of the Scottish Borders. The landscape is always stunning come rain, hail or sunshine. If you love nature and wildlife, then this is the place for you. Travelling further afield I would recommend travelling to the town of Hawick, which is approximately a half an hour drive from the hotel. Here you will find everything that this region is famous for: cashmere, tweed, and of course, whisky! Hawick has a rich manufacturing heritage and an international reputation for producing quality goods. The main activity takes place within the four bridges of Hawick, where you will find a collection of weavers, knitters and distilleries, all of which produce premium Scottish products. And if you are missing city life, head to Scotland’s capital city, Edinburgh, which has a fabulous culinary offering, an edgy art scene and culture in abundance. A summary of our stay at SCHLOSS Roxburghe Hotel & Golf Course
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Most people who know me know I love the great outdoors and expansive coastlines and I have a penchant for country manor houses - especially those with a relaxing spa and an abundance of oversized sofas that invite you to curl up with a good book and glass of red, post outdoor adventure, of course. After my recent visit to the breathtaking Isle of Anglesey in North Wales for the Zest Life retreat, a trip East to the northern coastline of Devon seemed like the perfect next step in my exploration of the wonderful UK isle. The vibe and location Located in North Devon, Highbullen Hotel is the ideal base for exploring Exmoor and beyond. Dating back to 1879, this contemporary manor house set within a sprawling 127-acre estate boasts magnificent views across the Mole Valley and Exmoor National Park. Exceptionally inviting, this classic country manor offers sumptuous living quarters and a relaxed atmosphere combined with modern luxuries, making it the ideal place for a much needed respite, and when ready, the perfect spot to explore North Devon. The rooms The country house lobby offers classically decorated drawing rooms off the main hall and invites you to drop your bags at the front desk and sprint to find your best viewing spot. The main building, a Victorian Arts and Craft manor house, is home to 12 beautiful bedrooms, all individually decorated with their own charm. The spectacular award-winning Loft Suite comes complete with its own steam room and infrared sauna, while a further 30 bedrooms can be found throughout the Estate in The Courtyard, Gardener’s Row, Golf View and Stable Cottage. Highbullen also offers four luxurious self-catering cottages. It’s the little touches that make each room welcoming; the classic William Morris style fabrics, beautiful floral and old English styled rooms, very super comfy beds, with a higher than normal level, definitely made me feel like a princess in a castle; a room with a view. Each room has tea and coffee making facilities and bright airy bathrooms with ample space to indulge in those well needed self-spa moments; a lovely hot bubble bath while enjoying cosmetic minis from The White Company. There was even a spot to carefully rest my iPad and catch up on Netflix - bliss. The Spa The spa and leisure centre at Highbullen Hotel is a dream, especially in the warmer months, which provide plenty of possibilities to enjoy the outdoors. A short walk from the main house, facilities include seven all-weather tennis courts, an outdoor swimming pool and an 18-hole golf course set in a wooded parkland. Indoors, guests can make use of a 20-metre indoor swimming pool with a sauna, steam-room and Jacuzzi. Highbullen Hotel has partnered with leading skincare brand, ELEMIS to offer a wide range of wonderful spa treatments. I indulged in the pool, steam and sauna before enjoying a great ELEMIS collagen facial, hoping to erase some of the years! It was a very calming, enjoyable treatment, so much so I almost fell asleep and needless to say, my skin felt exceptional for a few days afterwards. I will definitely be diving into one of those treatments again very soon. Food and Drink There are plenty of dining options at Highbullen. Formal dining takes place in the 2 AA Rosette Devon View Restaurant, under the careful watch of head chef Stephen Walker. The elegant dining room features floor-to-ceiling windows, granting spectacular panoramic views. The menu showcases seasonal and local produce with a modern British theme across all dishes. An extensive wine list offers wines from the old and new worlds and staff can suggest wine pairings. We enjoyed a night in the restaurant and dined on the a la carte menu and enjoyed a delicious selection of courses. The chef served up an amuse-bouche of tomato soup, with snippets of coriander, a burst of flavours and rich tomato flavour and creativity point of view. We followed this with a choice of steak, and local Hake with spring green risotto, served with care and consideration; an impressive bouquet of flavours Highbullen recently opened Laura Ashley The Tea Room. Designed in the distinctive Laura Ashley style, the room accommodates 74 covers, providing guests with unrivalled views bringing together the quintessence of England: the timelessness of afternoon tea, elegant country living and one of the most iconic English brands. This space is converted into The Supper Room between 6pm and 10pm daily. The casual dining menu here includes a wide style of dining options that will entice everyone including; ‘small plates and sharing platters’ priced from £4.50, ‘big eats’ priced from £12.50, ‘pizza and pasta’ priced from £11.00, ‘salads’ and ‘desserts’ priced from £6.50. We enjoyed the Champagne Afternoon Tea, I requested a gluten free option and it was exceptionally a like for like with my dining partners non-gluten free option and the staff were very accommodating. The Local Area Highbullen Hotel’s location in North Devon is the ideal base for exploring Exmoor and beyond. The walks in this area are particularly spectacular in the warmer months when the sun sets later in the day, allowing more time to discover this magical part of Devon. Travelling further afield With the coastal resort of Ilfracombe only a short drive away, we recommend a trip to see the old Victorian bathing tunnels and beaches, the Damien Hirst Verity statue or indulge in some real Devon ice cream from Hockings; a local family run business, of course after a classic paper-wrapped portion of fish and chips. And if you are in the car, take the coastal road on to Croyde, a route that's not be missed for some of the best views of the coastline. There is an intimate green charm to walks around Exmoor. The Moors also provide plenty of myth and legend to explore. But walking here is a joy and walkers will encounter subtle blends of prehistoric past and wilderness present. Highbullen can provide written and mapped walk details for 6 walks local to the hotel. The verdict With its exceptional location, this hotel may be suited for the traveller with a penchant for classic country comfort teamed with adventure for the outdoors. The details Bed and Breakfast is priced from £110 per room per night Highbullen Hotel Chittlehamholt Umberleigh North Devon EX37 9HD www.highbullen.co.uk
Old meets new at Madrid’s first five-star boutique hotelA palatial early 20th century building, the Urso Hotel & Spa blends its exterior neo-classical looks with a sleek, modern interior, drenched in marble and honey-toned wood. Something of a rarity in central Madrid, the hotel inhabits an entire block, restored by architect and designer Antonio Obrador who transformed the building into an elegant, sophisticated hotel. He kept many of the architectural features to create a discreet ambiance, while working with local craftspeople – an ironmonger, carpenter, vertical garden specialist and ébéniste – to restore the building and its interiors while preserving its history, with highlights including a restored antique elevator – still in use – and four stunning original early 20th century stained-glass windows. The vibe Set between the bourgeois neighbourhood of Chamberi, the up-and-coming Tribunal area, and the trendy Chueca district, Urso Hotel & Spa is surrounded by grand embassy buildings, wealthy residential areas and local, independent boutiques – with Barcelo food market and Madrid’s foodie scene also right on the doorstep. The bright lobby lounge, with an array of welcoming sofas just begin to be curled up in, was the perfect respite from a thundering Madrid rainstorm and with a well-stocked champagne bar within arm’s reach and a dulcet soundtrack piping through the speakers, it’s tempting to spend an afternoon ensconced in an armchair with a book and a glass of chilled rioja. The rooms The 78 rooms and suites are bright and fresh, with vintage photos of 1920s and 30s Madrid adorning the walls and adding another dose of history to this landmark building. The rooms include the Urso Hotel & Spa Suites, vast penthouse-style spaces on the top floor with marble bathrooms, as well as two Urso Hotel Spa & Terrace Suites, each with a private terrace for outdoor celebrations and breakfast under the Spanish sun. It’s the little touches that make each room extra welcoming; the fine natural fabrics in muted tones, extra comfortable mattresses, Nespresso coffee machines and minibars stocked with local products - everything adds up to a luxurious five star experience. The spa After getting caught in a downpour the Urso spa was a welcome respite, especially as during our chosen hour we were the only guests in situ. The first branded luxury hotel spa in Madrid, the spa offers treatments by the prestigious skincare specialists, Natura Bissé and Sisley Paris in its three treatment rooms. We indulged in the Hammam, steam room and hydrotherapy pool before a cosying up for a post-swim snooze in the relaxation room. Steam, swim, snooze repeat. The food Food is high on the Urso Hotel agenda. Something of a perfect start to the day, breakfast takes place in a stunning vertical garden room flooded by natural light, surrounded by bamboo trees and moss. Room service throughout the day includes delicacies from neighbouring shops; Urso Hotel & Spa’s bakery is supplied by one of the oldest bakers in town, while cold cuts and Iberico ham are served straight from the market opposite the hotel. The hotel’s newest gastronomic proposal is Media Ración, the restaurant created by Fernando Cuenllas of the legendary Madrid restaurant Cuenllas. An enticing menu of light bites, sharing plates and small tapas sourced from the neighbouring Mercado de Barcelo, is matched with the finest wines to create an offering that neither guests nor locals can resist, from acorn-fed Iberico ham to Cantabrian anchovies and classic croquetas. The verdict With its unique proposition, the location might be suited to the city traveller but the Urso’s offering is pure luxury; the perfect antidote to a busy weekend in the city. The details From €200 for a B&B stay in a Double Room and from €570 for a B&B stay in the Urso Hotel & Spa Terrace Suite – including breakfast and based on two people sharing.
Bless your visit to Madrid with a new breed of luxury An intoxicating new hotel brand has thrown open its doors in one of Madrid’s most exclusive quarters. The latest offering from Palladium Hotel Group, BLESS Collection Hotels welcomed its first outpost, BLESS Hotel Madrid, in January. Located on Calle de Velázquez, in the heart of the Barrio de Salamanca district, the hotel offers guests a slice of decadent luxury and cosy indulgence. In their own words, “we open our doors to a temple for those who love life.” The vibe From the front door fringed with palm fronds, through the sumptuously scented Versus Lounge to the design-laden reception space, all the way to your bedding hand-selected from the curated menu, every step through the property is a treat on the senses. The 111 rooms are bright, quiet and subtly sophisticated, decorated in colours and materials to transport you to 19th century Madrid. Our Studio Suite featured a sumptuous velvet headboard, perfectly chosen gold and leather accent accessories, opulent parquet flooring and an elegant wooden dressing room. The piéce de resistance was the 1920s bathtub, resplendent in front of windows overlooking the aristocratic Calle de Velázquez below. It was quite possibly the most beautiful hotel room I’ve ever had the pleasure of occupying. The rooms As if the super king bed wasn’t enough to guarantee a peaceful night’s slumber, guests can indulge in BLESS Collection’s BLESSBED, which enables guests to personalise their sleep via a menu of pillows and bed linen. Whether your preference is a goose feather or latex pillow, 450 thread Egyptian cotton, linen or silk, your wish is their command. It’s just one of the exclusive sensory experiences on offer to ensure your stay is beyond the best, including BATHOLOGY, whereby a personal butler will guide you through an exclusive bathing experience, selecting your daily choice of soaps and bath salts based on your mood and requirements. Oh to have such luxuries at home. The hotel clearly has guest experience at the forefront of every little decision. The decor throughout is stunning, yet no more so than the ground floor. The property’s interiors have been created by renowned Spanish designer and architect Lázaro Rosa-Violan, whose vision is to create a quintessentially Madrilenian character with a contemporary slant. The ground floor bar, reception space and surrounding seating areas may seat dozens, but with clever furniture arrangement, subtle use of lighting and plants, they manage to feel cosy and intimate rather than busy. Be prepared to suffer some serious interiors envy, this is prime Pinterest fodder. The food and drink The Versus Lively Lounge is open from 9am for guests to enjoy an exquisite breakfast, and all the way through until vermouth hour and beyond (you’ll want to tap up the bartenders when you see the cocktail menu) and for late night antics, head down to the basement to discover the Clandestine Bar, Fetén, home to its very own retro-styled bowling alley, open until a dangerously enticing 3am. Rest assured, however, that if you do end up seduced by a late night bowl, recovery is more than possible the morning after in the subterranean spa, with its jacuzzi, sauna and steam room, set alongside a fitness room should you feel the need to work off the hearty breakfasts. It’s perfectly possible to spend your entire trip within the confines of the hotel and not get bored, particularly once the summer months arrive and the stunning rooftop pool opens up. BLESS Hotel Madrid’s flagship restaurant, ETXEKO, is overseen by one of the world’s most prestigious chefs is set to become a true destination culinary experience. Holder of eight Michelin stars (more than any other Spanish chef), Martin Berasategui’s eponymous restaurant has been voted “the best restaurant in the world” and now he will act as the hotel’s gastronomic guru overseeing all the hotel’s food and beverage, with the star being his signature restaurant, Etxeco, set to become a true destination culinary experience. While we didn’t try dinner at the hotel, the breakfast offering was similarly sublime, with a classic continental spread along with freshly made dishes from Spanish omelette to shakshuka and pancakes. The verdict With a second property set to open in Ibiza this summer and more planned for some of the world’s most important capitals and prime coastal locations, this brand of hedonistic luxury is one you’re going to want to visit. Prices for BLESS Madrid start from £328 per room, based on a deluxe room, room only.
Bed Down In France’s Best Ski Hotel It’s not just us saying it. Val Thorens’ alpine spectacular Fahrenheit Seven has been graced with two golden accolades at the World Ski Awards, voted World’s Best Ski Hotel in 2017 and France’s Best Ski Hotel in 2018. Named after the temperature needed to create the perfect snowflake, it's the perfect place to add to your little black book for must-visit ski destinations. The vibe Crossing the threshold into a warming fug of giant Baobab Collection candles, the lull of late-night music drifting through from the bar and a roaring log fire toasting the lobby, I knew we were in for a treat. Situated near the edge of the resort, the hotel’s terrace overlooks the slopes and the main Peclet bubble, ski school and resort centre are all just minutes away, making it the ideal location if you like being in the midst of all the action. The natty staff uniforms, resplendent with tweed flat caps, denim shirts and bow ties, reflect the hotel’s design; somewhat vintage in feel yet somehow also contemporary and unerringly comfortable. The rooms The 109 rooms feature luxurious velvet headboards, spot lighting, vibrant contrasting fabrics and textures and retro wardrobes; they’re a dream for anyone with an interiors Pinterest board. I defy you not to instantly Google where to find such a luxe bed at home (FYI: made.com...). Co-founder Véronique Vidoni wanted to pay homage to the early days of the resort, so each room’s walls are peppered with black and white prints of Val Thorens’ 70s heyday, telling a retro story you can’t help but be seduced into. Check in to a slope-view room and you’ll be woken with a magical sunrise behind the peaks; I found myself throwing my curtains open and lying in bed watching the sky transform from inky blue to swirling shades of candy floss before thrilling us all by staying perfectly blue the whole day. For those travelling with little ones, family rooms and suites are also available featuring adjoining rooms with bunk beds. The extras Downstairs, the hotel's ski room provides direct access to the pistes, complete with toilets and showers to maximise slope time on your last day, a bar, TV corner, table football and individual lockers with heated boot warmers, plus a ski shop right next door to rent everything you need for a day on the slopes. Throw in the fact that there’s a steam room and sauna on site and it’s apparent they’ve pretty much thought of everything they can to make your stay as comfortable as possible. The food The restaurant La Rotisserie serves up a menu of inventive cuisine rooted in fresh produce with an Asian twist, not to mention a dream of a buffet breakfast (make sure to swipe a Nutella madeleine for an essential mid-ski snack…) but it’s after dinner the ground floor really comes alive. The cosy hotel Bar Le Zinc, welcomes lives music acts several times a week, enough to warm up even the coldest of winter nights, from live DJs and local bands to the once a month sell out “Seven Party”. In just one season the music programme at Fahrenheit Seven - and its sister hotel in Courchevel - has become one of the hottest in all the 3 Vallées. Saturday night and the music was echoing until the wee hours, long after we’d retired to our chambers, despite the lure of their spectacular signature cocktail list. The verdict Given its proximity to the action, the buzz after dark and its dreamy rooms, it’s no surprise Fahrenheit Seven has been raking in the awards.
Fez is home to Morocco’s oldest Medina and with a warren of over 9,000 twisting cobbled streets, it’s an attack on all the senses, a bustling hub of sights, smells and sounds. But just moments from the non-stop activity lies a haven of tranquility that could be a million miles away from the craziness that lies outside its walls. The vibe Palais Amani - so called Fez’s ‘best kept secret’ for very good reason - lies on the edge of the old city’s boundaries, hidden behind palatial wooden doors, crossing the threshold you’re transported far away from the bustling streets outside. A courtyard of striking blue and white tiled pillars, intricately carved wooden shutters behind which lie sumptuous suites, delicate fretwork above the rows of windows studding the butter yellow walls, all surrounding a lush verdant garden. Head up to the roof and you’ll be rewarded with a sun-drenched terrace, where you can take in 360° views of the city skyline and the mountains beyond from either a lounger on the rooftop solarium or a canopied seating area, covered in vibrant mirrored cushions and come sundown lit with the delicate flickering of hammered brass lanterns. The perfect spot enjoy a drink from the rooftop bar, the silence is only broken by the call to prayer that echoes out across the rooftops of the city. One of the hotel’s suites even has access to its own private domed terrace on which to take tea, though it’s worth asking about access as if no one is booked in to said suite, the terrace is yours for the taking. The rooms The opulent listed building was partly rebuilt in the 1930s, explaining the slight Art Deco touch to its Arabian Andalusian style, and the luxury Riad is home to eighteen rooms and suites. From cosy Classic Rooms with views over the Medina to the breathtaking Grand Suite, covering the whole 100 sq/m of the south wing and resplendent with a salon, his and hers dressing rooms, spectacular bathroom and breathtaking views onto the gardens and the hills beyond, all are set around the central courtyard garden and come with luxurious touches like local argan oil toiletries. The food The hotel restaurant offers guests a slice of traditional Moroccan cuisine with an inventive flair, with a daily changing discovery menu of local breakfast dishes - we fell in love with the fresh whipped goat’s cheese and delectable honey - as well as lunches and dinners served either inside or in the garden. In addition to the selection of exquisite Moroccan signature dishes on the à la carte menu - including the rather delectable tagging of lamb shanks served with barley meal and courgettes - there’s a ‘Market Moroccan’ concept offering a monthly changing three-course bistro menu of fresh, healthy dishes featuring an abundance of seasonal produce from the local market. It’s perfectly possible to while away the hours at Palais Amani, but with such a rich heritage to explore the other side of the walls, it makes for the perfect base from which to discover the fascinating ancient city of Fez. The hammam It would be rude to visit Morocco without trying a traditional Hammam and Palais Amani offers guests the opportunity right on site. It may take a few moments for your eyes to adjust to the darkness as you descend into the candle-lit basement after stepping out of the blinding sunshine, but there you’ll be greeted by a willing volunteer to scrub you until your skin shines like you didn’t know it could. The traditional Hammam experience (405dhs/approx £40) involves a sea salt crystal hand and foot bath, natural rose water and bran scrub foot scrub, a white rhassoul clay hair mask, a body steam bath with the traditional Moroccan argan oil and mint black soap and a thorough body exfoliation. Trust me, you’ll leave squeaky clean. The hotel also offers a spa menu of treatments, including luxurious massages with local oils which, for the ultimate indulgence, can take place in a private tented pergola on the roof. Those with a keen interest in beauty take note; as one of the wonderful menu of extra experiences Palais Amani can book for guests to enhance their stay, you can partake in a fascinating three hour beauty workshop, an introduction to traditional Moroccan beauty products. Being two complete junkies we obviously jumped at the chance and found ourselves, along with our guide, welcomed into the home of a local woman where we learnt of the secrets and scents of the Hammam essentials every woman is taught to make from a plethora of natural ingredients, with subtle, secret family twists on classic recipes passed down through generations of women. With a table laid out with everything needed, from volcanic Rhassoul clay from the Atlas Mountains, locally sourced henna, rose and orange waters, to dried herbs and spices, fresh eggs and honey she shared her recipes. From a henna and lemon juice face mask, to a deep conditioner of flax seed, egg yolk, olive and castor oils, a heavenly scented ground rice, cinnamon and rose water face scrub and a body scrub of ground lavender, rose petals, thyme and oats, we walked out of there with baby soft faces, Tupperware tubs labelled up ready for our Hammam visit, instructions on where to find the best honey and rose water in the Medina and a promise to make more of our own natural skincare upon our return. The extras To ensure your Palais Amani experience is everything you desire, the hotel can also arrange a multitude of other experiences, from a private hiking trip with luxury picnic in the surrounding mountains, an Arabic calligraphy workshop, photography tours, henna parties and excursions to nearby Chefchaouen and Meknez. This glittering gem of a hotel is also home to the Fez Cooking School (www.fezcookingschool.com), a must-do for those who like to get busy in the kitchen. Fez is the birthplace of Morocco’s most diverse cuisine, so it’s the perfect location to create your own. We joined the hotel chef for a morning food tour of the Medina to buy the ingredients for our feast, visiting olive sellers, passing open air butchers (not for those of a delicate stomach), stopping off for a taste of a local soup, sizzling fresh doughnut and freshly-brewed mint tea, plunging deeper into the winding cobbled streets of the Medina and wondering, were we not in the very capable hands of our guide, if we would ever find our way out again. Back at Fez Cooking School’s open-air rooftop kitchen, we worked under the expert tutelage of the chef to create a mouthwatering chicken tagine packed with onions and olives, a zaalouk smoky aubergine salad and a divine dessert of layers of flaky pastry drizzled with an orange blossom icing and finished with cinnamon and honey, all of which were devoured in the sunshine with a glass of wine. With the Fez Cooking School programme also including Moroccan bread and pastry workshops and a Moroccan Jewish Culinary Heritage Workshop and prices from around £32 per person to £150 per person, there’s something for everyone.
Getting out of London for a night has be one of my favourite pastimes; for those days when you need a little break, a time out from real life, but the time constraints and budget won’t quite stretch to a proper mini break in a far flung city. Luckily, there’s a raft of rather delightful spa hotels a mere stone’s throw from the capital that are begging for a post-work sojourn on a Friday evening. The vibe The Runnymede on Thames in Egham is exactly that. Leaving work at 5.30pm on a Friday, we were crossing the hotel’s threshold by 6.45pm, ready for a night of rest and relaxation. Situated on the bank of the river and just a short taxi ride from Egham station, it’s an ideal getaway for a night away from London. With rooms overlooking the river, a spa and fitness room and two restaurants on site, it’s no wonder we found it buzzing with guests upon arrival. The rooms Rooms vary from singles for the solo traveller to doubles overlooking the river, family suites and even dog-friendly rooms for those travelling with a faithful companion. Checking in to ours, I instantly eyed up the ESPA toiletries in the bathroom, ready for my post-prandial soak, along with a bottle of prosecco chilling in the minibar, part of the hotel’s current 'Fizz & Films' package, offering couples a bed and breakfast stay with unlimited films, a bottle of fizz and popcorn from £160 for two. Nevertheless, having leapt on a train straight from work dinner called… The food The hotel has two restaurants; The Lock Bar and kitchen is the a la carte offering, boasting a 2018 AA Rosettes award for culinary excellence with a menu of hearty, home-style cooking and a regularly changing menu. The Leftbank restaurant however, our dinner location, may well be the best buffet I’ve ever encountered. Completely spoilt for choice, we absolutely gorged on a smorgasbord of delicious fresh salads and nibbles to start, from lentil, butternut and goats cheese to devilled eggs, before helping ourselves to a selection of fresh fish, calamari and mussels, which the chef cooked up before our eyes in a creamy white wine sauce. With an array of sides to accompany, guests can choose from a plethora of dishes from the theatre kitchen, from sizzling roasts with all the trimming, pasta and sauces cooked to order and stone baked rustic dough with delicious cheesy toppings. The range of food on offer was something else. Puddings must not be overlooked; given we visited on Burns’ Night I very much enjoyed the Cranachan … though the individual strawberry cheesecakes were rather delightful. And the meringues, and for that matter the chocolate brownies… OK, so it was all delicious! The danger with a buffet however is one’s tendency to overeat, so perhaps be mindful when dining that you WILL want it all so probably best to stick with small quantities. A pre-breakfast swim was just the ticket prior to another gorge at the buffet; fresh fruit with coulis and homemade compotes, a cereal and yoghurt bar, homemade Bircher and granola, a continental spread featuring ham, mortadella and smoked salmon, cheese, pastries and a full English buffet to pick and choose from… needless to say breakfast is another hefty affair, made all the sweeter by the addition of comb honey from their very own resident bees. The spa With the spa open until 10pm the temptation of a post-dinner session proved too much to resist; after all, is there anything better for the digestion than a jacuzzi? Resplendent with the addition of a steam room, dry and infra saunas and pool, it’s the perfect place to while away an evening. Sauna, swim, steam, repeat is my new mantra in life. The spa’s treatment many encompasses a whole manner of massages, facials, body wraps and more, with a number of spa day experience packages available. They’ve even earmarked particular treatments for younger guests, a great option to those who might want to treat their teens. Should it strike your fancy the gym and studio classes are also available… though admittedly I didn’t feel the need to break my relaxation with a workout. Come the summer months there’s an outdoor pool available, while guests can also indulge in the riverside hot tub, though the thought of being exposed to all and sundry jogging along the public towpath doesn’t particularly fill me with joy. The extras Although our January sojourn wasn’t quite the right timing for it, guests can also enjoy messing about on the river in one of the hotel’s boats, with a number of staff licensed to skipper you up and downriver from their private mooring, something it’s certainly worth keeping in mind for the summer months. The verdict The only criticism I had of our stay was the somewhat dubious array off films on offer; for a film package the choice was disappointing, with absolutely zero chick flicks or rom coms (yes I was on a girls’ minibreak…) and more *ahem* adult films than actual entertaining choices we wanted to watch, though given we were so stuffed from supper and drowsy post-bubble bath it wasn’t the end of the world. For a deliciously relaxing night away less than an hour from London, The Runnymede on Thames is certainly one to add to your little black book.
Experience a dream cruise around the islands of Raja Ampat, Indonesia As far as luxury cruises are concerned, it doesn’t get any better than a four-day cruise around one of Indonesia’s best kept secrets: the islands of Raja Ampat off the coast of West Papua. More than 1800 islands, many uninhabited, float like mushrooms out of the Ocean from Sorong all the way north to Aljuy Bay and Piaynemo. What’s under water though, is even more enticing. An incredible variety of maritime life and colorful reefs await scuba divers and snorkelers. Land excursions to some of the bigger islands let you meet the friendly locals in tiny villages, visit a pearl farm and climb the highest peak to admire the all over iconic panorama. The Yacht Prana by Atzaro is a luxurious Phinisi yacht, the word meaning a traditional Indonesian two mast boat. She offers nine suites which can accommodate 18 guests, four decks, a dining room, spa with massages and some beauty treatments and a sun deck .Although she is a sail boat, she travels mostly by engine because there isn’t enough wind to cover the four day program. Food is prepared by a Balinese chef and caters to all tastes and culinary requirements. The Prana has two speedboats for water sport and to ferry passengers to and from the islands with a helpful crew to look after you. As this is mainly a cruise for diving and water sport enthusiasts, all equipment is available on boards, as are canoes, paddle boards and even floats in the shape of a strawberry to just drift around on for fun. The suites The Prana features one super suite on the upper deck with its own sundeck and sitting area. The other eight are distributed on the decks below, all with windows or portholes to admire the sea and let in daylight. Super comfortable beds, a spacious enough bathroom with rain shower and a great array of beauty products incl. suntan and after care lotions, mini bar, a tablet, safe and enough cupboards for your clothes complete the picture. There is even a TV and Wifi, but due to the location, coverage is sparse. So, enjoy a few nearly internet free days. Robes and slippers are provided as is laundry service should you need it. The spa The spa is, by necessity, rather small, but you can have a great verity of massages either in your room or on deck. They are a special treat and most welcome after a day of diving, swimming or climbing up mountains on the islands. You can also have a manicure or facials. The food The emphasis is on Indonesian food with bami or nasi goring for breakfast followed by smoothies, cereals, enormous fresh fruit platters, poached eggs with salmon or bacon according to taste and much more. No food is wasted, as the chef asks each morning what passengers would like for lunch and dinner, giving a choice of three main courses and starters. Vegans, vegetarian and everything in between are catered for. One highlight of the cruise is a picnic and barbecue on the beach with fresh fish, lobster, grilled vegetables and steak if desired. Nothing is left behind to sully the pristine beach, everything is carried by speedboat from the vessel to the island and back. After diving and swimming, crew members welcome you back on board with a refreshing fruit drink and a hot or cold towel. In case you wonder, this is not an alcohol-free trip, beer and white wine are available, although red is rather sparse. The itinerary This particular cruise starts in Sorong Habour where the cruise director and crew members pick you up and transfer you and your luggage by speed boat to the Prana. Garuda Indonesian Airlines offer flights from London to Sorong via Jakarta. Once settled in your suite, the Paran lifts anchor and sails through the night to the island of Mioskon and Saporkrem, giving you a first impression of the wonder world of Raja Ampat. On Saporkrem you have a chance to watch the mating of birds of paradise up in the trees of a mountain. You have to rise very early though, because the brids have a habit of mating only at 6am sharp for just half an hour. The speedboat takes you to the island early enough, followed by a steep climb up the mountain. After your return, a second breakfast awaits, followed by a return to visit the village, chat to the locals (with the help of a crew member) or dive and swim. The next islands visited are Wayag with Mount Pindito and a sumptuous barbecue on the beach, followed by a visit to a ranger station and watching sharks. No fear, they are rather smallish, so you can easily swim among them without losing a toe or limb. Another sail through the night to the pearl farm in Aljuy Bay where the whole process is demonstrated and where you can buy some rings or necklaces made from the beautiful South Sea Pearls. The next islands are Wofoh with another village visit to see the locals making coconut oil and Piaynemo where you have to climb 319 steps to the best viewpoint of Raja Ampat. Rest and cool your feet by swimming in a natural pool or go for another dive to explore Melissa’s Garden. Sailing through the night again, the Prana returns to Sorong where you are ferried to port and the airport. The verdict This trip is primarily for divers and water port enthusiasts but even if you don’t dive there is so much to do and see on land, you’ll never have a dull moment. Overall, it’s the perfect combination of luxury cruising with fabulous scenery and activities. The details Rates for a full charter 7 days Raja Ampat start at $14.000. For all details please see: https://pranabyatzaro.com/ratesandschedule. For bookings and further information please contact info@pranabyatzaro.com. A Summary of our experience on the Prana by Atzaro
Entering my room at the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar in Oman, it’s the mystique of Arabian Nights that comes to mind; smooth walls are patterned with illuminations from cutwork lamps and a studded dark wood dresser is laden with fruit. On the wall by my bed hangs a huge bronze plate and I can’t help but look for a mallet with which to strike it; surely it’s actually a gong with which to summon assistance? A modern form of room service - the telephone - may be far less evocative, but it’s super efficient nonetheless, and I’m soon happily ensconced with food and a glass of wine on a chaise longue in the corner of the room, peering fruitlessly into the darkness outside. It was dark when we arrived and I’m eager to see the views from this canyon-edge resort; with that in mind, I leave the curtains flung open when I eventually throw myself on to the wide, white bed to sleep. Impatient I may have been, but it’s worth the wait because when the pale rose pink of sunrise pulls me over to the window the next morning, what lies beyond is nothing short of epic: a huge bowl of chalky limestone and jagged rock, terraced with green farming land in some parts and almost lunar in appearance in others. Located over 2,000m above sea level, the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar is the Middle East’s highest five-star resort, in every way worthy of a princess. Sadly, for one particular princess, the resort was not here when she visited back in 1986 - and nor were the increasingly steep and winding roads on which we made our way from Muscat last night. Dropped in these wild and unforgiving elements by helicopter for a six-hour sojourn with her husband Charles, Diana is immortalised in the hotel’s Diana’s Point, where a nightly throng of cocktail-drinking guests gather in front of a blazing fire drum, to take in the spectacle of sunset over the landscape, often with clouds drifting in below and all but obscuring the village at the canyon’s base. Other ways to enjoy the staggering views abound - from the cliff-edge infinity pool and hot tubs, to sunrise yoga on Diana’s Point - while those wishing to know more about the area and its history can take a guided hike around the all-but-deserted villages that cling to the inside of the canyon. Accompanied by an Omani local, we learn about the ancient system of irrigation - called falaj - that inhabitants have developed over millennia to combat the water shortages from which the area, despite its elevation, suffers. Following the course of one such channel from a waterfall, we pass fruit trees which, in season, are hung with pomegranates, apricots and pears, as well as the rows of bushes from which the Damask rose petals, used for making the famed Omani rosewater, are harvested in the March-May season. Used for cosmetic purposes, this intoxicatingly scented liquid, along with saffron and cardamom, also flavours the Omani coffee that we take in one of the villages; fudgy, squidgy dates are served alongside to provide the missing sugar-sweetness. Although few people now live in the villages - they have relocated to the nearby ‘New Town’ where running water, education and medical care are more readily accessible - these atmospheric doorways and laneways have by no means been abandoned, and home owners still walk the steep inclines and rugged paths to check in on their properties and tend to their crops and animals. For those who dare, the resort’s Ultimate Activity Wall offers an opportunity to immerse yourself - almost literally - in the jagged landscape of the canyon. Accompanied by a qualified guide, we are secured by way of a locked carabiner to a cable line that spans a via ferrata for some 200m along the inside wall of the canyon, our feet tiptoeing along knife edge ledges, while our sweat-dampened hands clutch at overhanging lips and metal pegs. Beneath us, the world falls away, a pale collage of ragged cloud and rugged limestone, with huge boulders poised as if in mid-fall on the lower reaches of the canyon bowl. The course ends with a series of zip wires strung across the canyon, across which we whoop and glide, our legs, freed from the pressures of finding footholds, now dangling joyfully in mid air. The Spa There’s only one thing that someone who has come down off the adrenaline of such an experience deserves, and that’s some quality time in the Spa, where tranquility is the order of the day from the moment you set foot within its graceful walls. Treatments incorporate local flavours and scents, with rosewater and pomegranate providing their soothing properties in a menu of rituals for face and body. Separate suites for men and women include sauna and steam rooms, experience showers, relaxation chambers, outdoor gardens with loungers and refreshment stations at which to snack on dried fruits and nuts, whilst rehydrating with a herbal tea. As delicious as dried fruits and nuts are, beyond the spa, a world of edible delights awaits, from the daily breakfast buffet in Al Maisan (the name means ‘Amazing Star’ in Arabic) where guests can choose from an array of temptations, to the casual elegance of Bella Vista which, located by the pool with access to Diana’s Point, offers homestyle Italian cuisine - perfect carb-loading after a morning of adventure. For that genuine ‘princess in a castle’ feeling, head to the striking tower at the far end of the main building to enjoy cocktails at Al Burj, its upper level, before descending the lantern-lit staircase to Al Qalaa, which specialises in authentic Omani and Middle Eastern recipes, beautifully served in locally-crafted ceramics. The verdict As as been the case with every Anantara I’ve ever had the pleasure of staying at, the level of service here exceeds exceptional, with genuine warmth, as well as efficiency and capability, infusing every interaction. The Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar featured in BBC2’s ‘Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby’ which saw Giles Coren and Monica Galetti experience its fortress-inspired walls. Coren’s blatant fear of heights meant that he wasn’t a fan of the Activity Wall, but even with that fact potentially clouding his judgement, he couldn’t fault the resort. The fact that I loved the vertiginous thrill of it can surely only mean that I rate the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar even more highly than he did. The details Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort No 110 Al Jabal Al Akhdar Nizwa 621 Oman A summary of our stay at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar
Enjoy a weekend city break at the only country house in the city of YorkYork is an area of outstanding beauty with plenty of history and stories to tell. Focused around the magnificent York Minster and surrounding cobbled old town; it's a visual feast for the eyes. After snagging a reasonable return train ticket to York early on a Friday morning, I headed to this renowned medieval city for a whirlwind visit during my stay at Middlethorpe Hall & Spa. The vibe Middlethorpe Hall is an elegant country house located just outside the city of York, making it the perfect base for a city and country retreat. Built in 1699, this gorgeous William III country house stands in 20 acres of award-winning gardens and parkland. Crammed with character, it's charming but not too over-the-top posh. Formally the home of the famous 18th century diarist Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, the house has been restored and decorated in keeping with the period - think antiques, fireplaces, sumptuous carpets, gilt-framed portraits and the faint ticking of a grandfather clock, providing the perfect space to unwind while gazing out at the manicured gardens or settling in to a juicy page turner. The 29 bedrooms vary from luxury and sophisticated in the main house to a selection of homely stable conversions in the attractively restored 18th century courtyard. Each room comes fully equipped and individually designed to its own distinct country house story. The food The classically paneled dining rooms with a garden view are the perfect setting to enjoy a contemporary take on traditional British food. The restaurant has been twice awarded "restaurant of the year" in the Visit York Awards and retains 2 AA Rosettes. Head chef Ashley Binder and pastry chef Paul Harrison have produced superb menus, working closely with local suppliers and the hotel's gardening team to ensure the menu is fresh and seasonal. A tasting menu is available and the a la carte menu includes finely prepared dishes, from the Ham Hock Terrine with Pear Parsnip and Pancetta; to Wild Halibut with Crab Ravioli with Burnt Orange and Fennel to Yorkshire Rabbit. Dessert options of Passion Fruit Cheesecake or Chocolate and Clementine Tart round off the dining experience with a delicate sprinkling of sweet goodness. The Spa The boutique spa with its blue-tiled pool is the perfect place to relax and recharge. The spa sits in a cosy Edwardian cottage opposite the hotel. Guests can don their bath robes and slippers and step into an atmosphere of blissful relaxation and enjoy the large swimming pool, spa bath, steam room and sauna. Meals and snacks are serviced in the Club Room and if it's a little nippy outside, the open fireside and a pot of steaming tea with a selection of home made biscuits should melt away any winter chills. Treatments range from facials and manicures to detox reviverss, using Aromatherapy Associates, Shellac and Jessica products. The Detox Reviver was my preferred pick, an invigorating treatment that included a body brushing, exfoliation and a full body mud mask, all of which certainly did the trick. The verdict Middlethorpe Hall & Spa is a perfect destination for a relaxing weekend. Couples can enjoy the good life with a relaxed stay, fine cuisine and a possibility of city adventure, history and culture only a taxi ride away. The details Bed and breakfast priced from £219.00 per night based on two sharing. Middlethorpe Hall & Spa York Yorkshire YO23 2GB www.middlethorpe.com
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July 2022
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